In general video cards in the same spec will generally perform very closely to each other. ie. 5700XT Sapphire/Red Devil. There maybe other features that have (better cooling, VRMs, Multiple VBIOS) that you could want and will have to decide if they are important to you. The best what to make a decision is to check benchmarks for the games you want to play and reviews for the individual cards on your list. Both Gamers Nexus and Hardware Unboxed on Youtube tend to do large gaming benchmarks, so you can see how a graphics card does compared to others in multiple titles. ie. A chart with the 5700, 5700XT, 2070, etc performance. Since you said you are more concerned about smoothness frame times and 1% lows would probably be the statistics you want rather than FPS.
If there is a plug on the front of your GPU (that looks similar to the one for your CPU on the MOBO) plug the PCIe cable from your power supply into it.
Your CPU is pretty old. It might not be bottlenecking your GPU. MSI Afterburner is a free program with a hardware overlay when you are playing games. Download it and look at your CPU and GPU use percentage in games. If you CPU usage is at 100%, then your CPU is a bottleneck. Your GPU is producing frames faster than your CPU can process them.
What are your specs? What is the game and FPS you expected? What settings are you running at?
Is the TV working for other things? ie. Shows, video game console, etc
What do you mean by another CPU pin? Do you mean a spare CPU to try or is something not connected?
It might be worth a try to remove the video card and reseat it in the slot.
If you have a friend with a video card, you could try that and see if the display works.
Your two most likely problems are a faulty video card or PCIe slot in your MOBO. If a spare video card works then it is the card, if not then suspect the MOBO.
Are you connecting the HDMI to the MOBO or the graphics card?
Is your TV set to the correct input for where you plugged in the HDMI cable?
If that is the only problem with the MOBO, you could buy a PCIe sound card. That might be cheaper than replacing the entire board.
The OS is usually tied to the MOBO if you got an OEM licence for Windows. Sometimes you can call Microsoft and talk them into activating it for you. If you bought Windows (non-OEM) and linked it to your Microsoft account it is more transferable. You could also try experimenting with Linux. It is free and Steam has done a lot to get Windows games to run in Linux easily with proton.
Here is some help from Microsoft on installing and activating Windows: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12440/windows-10-activate
What you like is subjective. You can prefer what ever you like and don't have to justify it to anyone. I personally tend to like full screen mode.
Yes, it will work. When you install your M2 drive into your MOBO 2 of the physical SATA ports are disabled to provide bandwidth to the drive. Your MOBO manual will tell you which two. It should not be a problem with your build. If in the future you decided to add a SATA SSD or HDD you would have to plug it into one of the SATA ports that is not disabled.
Your cooler should be fine. You have a large case, so the upper clearance should be fine. It will probably clear the RAM and the manufacturer website suggested offsetting the front fan if you have a clearance problem. Another option is the Dark Rock Pro 4 linked to below. It is about the same price and has a small fan on the front specifically to clear RAM.
I have this cooler in my system. I'm using Corsair Vengeance RAM in my system as well with a smaller case (Fractal Design Focus G).
They also changed the contact for the heat sink. The original 2600 coolers had a copper base plate. The 3600 cooler is aluminum.
If you are just going to be gaming you could cut your RAM down to 16 GB. Very few games will even use more than 8. You have 4 DIMM slots, so it is very easy to drop another 16 GB in, if you need it.
I did in the post. The reference design runs hot and loud. For $10 more you get a cooler quieter card. This will help demonstrate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQJCm7bnOfU
The MOBO may need a BIOS update to work with a 3000 series CPU. You can check with your retailer to see if the BIOS was updated or if they will do it prior to shipping/selling the board to you. If it wasn't you can update as long as you have access to an older CPU. If not AMD has a program to send you a loaner CPU to update the BIOS.
Instructions from AMD to update BIOS: https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/pa-100
A M2 SSD will disable two of the regular SATA ports on your MOBO. Your MOBO manual will tell you which 2. This is important if you are installing multiple drive, so you don't plug a SATA cable into one of the disabled ports. That would prevent your computer from "seeing" on of your drives.
If you are going with a full platform upgrade you might want to consider Ryzen. It has great performance at a decent price. The B450 tomahawk should be Ryzen 2 ready out of the box. I changed your graphics card from the reference design. The reference models for Navi are hot and loud. If you are water cooling they are a great choice because you would be removing the blower. I also included a 1440p monitor. I just got this one myself for $300. It is a freesync monitor, so it will work no problem with your planned AMD graphics card.
Comparison of I5 vs R5
Review of Pixio Montior
If I had to guess I would lean towards a problem with the MOBO. Your keyboard worked on another computer, so it doesn't seem to be a problem with that. The graphics and keyboard both run through the MOBO, so it would seem to be the common thread. Try running you GPU in one of the lower PCIe slots and see if that works. If you have another machine to check your GPU in that is another idea to check and see if that is the problem. Plugging the HDMI cable into your MOBO directly won't do you any good to check the GPU, because neither your FX-6300 or FX-8350 have integrated graphics according to their listings on PCpartpicker.
What are you going to be using the PC for? ie. Gaming, Video editing, etc?
As for your compatability notes:
1) Using a M2 drive usually disabled 2 of the SATA ports on your MOBO. You will have to check and see which 2 in the manual. What this means when you are building is you must plug your HDD into one of the other ports or your computer will not be able to "see" your drive.
2) This is a cover their butt warning that your cooler may or may not conflict with you RAM height. You have to check to measurements on the cooler to make sure it is high enough to make room for the RAM.
On the subject of the cooler, a 9900K is a very powerful and hot processor which needs a decent cooler. The 212 Evo is probably not enough. You may what to look at a Dark Rock Pro 4 or AIO, especially if you plan to overclock.
This is in your price range and has some decent reviews.
Super glue? I wouldn't use more than a couple small drops in case you ever want to remove it.
No need to worry about that. This a a prequel to Half Life 2 and HL3. They are still leaving everyone dangling over that cliff.
I'm assuming this is for gaming. The power supply should be changed for something more reliable. Remember if your power supply fails it can take other components with it. I also added a HDD. If you are gaming you can fill up a 240 SDD real fast. Keep your OS on the SSD and use the HDD for your games library.
If you want to use another PSU, than the one I suggested this can help you pick.
This one isn't coming out until next month, but has some of the features you are looking for.
Here is a review of it.
The Cruical SSDs are pretty good. They are less expensive than Samsung's, but still have a cache memory.
That being said, looking at the pictures on the page for the 220 t, it looks like there are 2 SSD mounting points in the back, and 2 full 3.5" removable drive sleds under the power supply shroud.
Just to clarify you do mean the RX 570 and not the RX 5700, right?
If it is the 5700, you will want to stay away from the XFX card.
It seems to be fine. I used the color calibration profile from Hardware Unboxed's patreon page. Also seems to be running 165 refresh rate even with freesync enabled. The base is solid, but I might look for an after market stand for tilt and height adjustment.
Your case comes with 2 front intake fans, so I removed one of your other fans. Put the remaining one in the rear as an exhaust. It will keep the inside of your case at a positive pressure and slow dust build up. You have an ATX case so I switched you to an ATX MOBO. It has 2 additional DIMM slots for future upgrades. I also added a 1 TB HDD. If you are playing games a 240 GB SSD will fill up quick. I have the same case in black. Be careful with the side panel when building. The acrylic is very easy to scratch. Also run the front audio connector though the routing hole, before placing the MOBO in the case. It is a tight fit once the MOBO is in place and will make attaching it easier.
I just bought a Pixio PX 329. It is running $300 at Walmart and Amazon. It should be arriving today. I'll post on how it does. Some trade offs for price. It is a VA panel so response times are slower (5ms). It is 165 mHz refresh rate, but with Freesync enabled it drops to 144. The brightness is supposed to be a little low too.
It could be. Remove the cooler and clean the bottom of the cooler and top of your CPU with 90% isopropol alcohol to remove all of the old thermal paste, then apply new paste, replace the cooler and see if it solves your problem.
For the RAM, place your sticks in the slots indicated in to MOBO manual. If you think there is a RAM problem remove the stick and test them one at a time. Since they were working before your took the computer apart, I would lean more towards your paste being the problem.
Also, check all your cables and make sure they were all reconnected firmly in the right place when the PC as reassembled.
Consider switching to a 1660 Super. The performance is very close to a 1660 ti and it is slightly cheaper.
I forgot to ask. Does your MOBO have debugging LEDs and are any of them lit up?
Is your graphics card plugged into the PSU?
Try the second PCIe slot down in case the top one is faulty.
Try removing your RAM , Reinsert 1 stick at a time, in case one of the sticks is bad.
If you have another computer available, try connecting that to your monitor to make sure that is working properly. If you have another monitor or TV, you could alternately hook that up to your computer to check the monitor.
Slightly off topic, but since they already answered your question, a Linux distro is another option to consider. The OS is free and for office and internet browsing, there is a lower (not non-existent) risk of viruses. Libre Office is a free suite of software similar to Microsoft Office. Just something to consider as another option.
1) Is your monitor on and is there any messages at all? ie. "No signal/No Input"
2) Do you have your video cable plugged into your graphics card or your MOBO?
3) Does the rest of your PC seems to be working? ie. Power LED lit, fans spinning
4) Are all cables and wires fully connected?
How about this?
Probably one of your best bets is to find some monitors you like on your local sites and then copy paste that monitor name into youtube to look for reviews. Hardware Unboxed does some very good monitor reviews.
This should help.
Ryzen 2000 series run best at 3200 speed and the increase is only a few dollars. You can save some money, by going with a WIFI included MOBO.
A motherboard is more likely to fail than a CPU, so that is probably right. You could try to call the ASUS, since your warranty ran out so recently. They will probably say no, but it doesn't hurt to try.
Something like that is a personalization thing, so it is probably best to ask that question of yourself. What do I enjoy? What can I put in this PC to make it seem to be more mine? If you do put something in make sure your secure it, ie. hot glue/double stick velco. You want to be able to move your PC for maintenance without the object tipping over and damaging a component.
The only changes I made was switching your SSD and increasing your graphics card. The SSD is the same base capacity, but also has a high speed cache at $10 less then the one your had. I switched your GPU from a 580 to a 590. It was only $20 more and if you consider the SSD saving only adds $10 to the build.
It is a nice increase, but in the end is up to you. It depends on how long it would take you to save up the $60 and if you are willing to wait and deal with the BIOS issue.
Be careful with that RAM, it is not on the supported RAM list from the manufacturer.
Here is some parts list changes.
I changed your memory to one which is one the supported list. You can check to see if their a another kit you like better. I picked the red and black to match your board. You will likely have to give up RGB for anything around that price range. You PSU is not a great one. Cutting costs on the PSU can give you headache later. If the PSU fails than at a minimum you are going to have to buy another PSU, and at worse it can take out other components. I'm going to post a PSU tier list below if you want to check out other PSUs. The x variant is almost always not worth it for the incresed cost, so you can cut back to the 2600 without seeing much of a change in performance. If you want to get a 3600 that will be a nice upgrade, but remember with most B450 boards you will have to update the BIOS. You can check with the seller to see if the board is already upgraded, borrow a CPU from a friend, or AMD has a CPU loaner program to update. I hope that helps. Enjoy the new PC.
What is your budget and what are you going to use the computer for? ie. Gaming, video editing, internet browsing, etc.
Sorry, I accidently looked the the gaming 5 and gaming 7, not the two gaming 7 variants.
This will explain it.
I'm using Windows on my gaming PC at home and Linux on my work laptop. If Microsoft makes Windows subscription only I'll switch my gaming PC over to Linux too. Steam has done a lot to make Linux more accessible for gaming. For browsing and productivity I actually prefer Linux.
The gaming 7 has external power and clear CMOS buttons on the IO plate. It also has some more USB 3 ports. The gaming 7 does not have an HDMI or display port jack, but odds are if you are springing for an x470 you are getting a discrete GPU anyway. The gaming 7 also allows a higher RAM speed at 3600.
Yup. The differnence between a 3600 and a 3600x really isn't worth it. Go with the 5700XT.
There is so much variation in part configurations in PC building, you will probably not find an exact match. Any PC build video will do as a general guideline of how to assemble a PC. After that you will have to follow the manuals included with the MOBO, case, and cooler.