So far its been through TESV soecial edition, without a hitch. That was at 1080p though.
So far its been through TESV soecial edition, withput a hitch. That was at 1080p though.
Thanks, and congrats on your build. It's great having Player 2. :)
Did you stick with OEM fans, or go with aftermarket?
R5 1600 is a 65W TDP as well.
I'm not sure, the PSU hasn't been put through an immense workload. You could just be seeing the PCMR elitism there. With the 980ti's TDP of 300W, the PSU is the part of the build that is my biggest concern. If there are unexplained frame dips or lock-ups in the future, I'll keep this updated.
Yeah, it always did run hot, but I've only had a problem with it since I moved to 4K. I still don't regret the card one bit, still a beast and it was so much cheaper than the others.
It truly does, but a small reward is that we don't have absurd price changes from one company to the other, as certain countries in Europe have mentioned.
If you're a beginner, it might be best to get EVGA FTX for its cooling capabilities, and weather with a good card through this upgrade cycle before attempting to buy and watercool a FE card. Avoid MSI Armor OC cooler style, the fans are too small.
I think I've failed to explain it.
You mean to say that you're using the x62 to cool your CPU? This should be plenty.
What I meant is for custom watercooling your graphics card. Having a Founder's Edition (Reference board/nvidia cooler/oem) design makes it easier to find the parts separately, or as a prebuilt loop. Think: "There are dozens of different card designs, but only one Founder's Edition design."
Except for the Kingpin/OC Edition, they're all the same in terms of performance. Noise, and cooler efficiency are the main things that set cards apart. FE cards are louder, and better for small computer cases.
A big thing to consider is custom watercooling, or something like the EKWB A240G. Here, having a FE card makes it cheaper, and easier to find waterblocks.
I'm currently running an i7-5820k @ 4.4 GHz, 1.240V. I can go higher, but id rather not on 24/7 OC.
Thats a 1.1 GHz boost on a H100i, max 70 oC
I feel that the i7 7700k is widely covered, and you can find plenty of literature on this. Keep in mind they have a widely observed TIM issue, so temps will be higher.
Overall, I recommend the 7700k for core clocks because of video game preferences
No, it will work without the update.
You'd be a fool not to update it though because most ram wont run past 2133 MHz without newer bios.
No, thumb drive doesn't need to be empty. Just extract the file and copy it over. Boot into bios, and go into MFlash
He does, yes.
Yes, they were stuck at 2133 MHz at first. After a bios update the speeds were 2933 MHz.
I will try and get a better picture when I get the chance.
Edit: Pictures are posted!
I will try and confirm this when I get a chance. No post issues were encountered however.
If you can run a USB cable, why not instead run an Ethernet cable? The adapter was needed because this build was located outside the room with the router
These two are very similar, and should suite your bare minimum needs, however one supports overclocking:
This one is more attractive, and might be a better choice:
If you could wait, AMD Ryzen products have higher core counts which would directly benefit the activities you're intending for this PC. Although they haven't been released, prices for the highest end cpus have been released, and are comparable to the 7700K.
I'd recommend getting another cpu cooler because that style is often loud, probably cryorig C7, H7, or cooler master 212 evo, or 212.
Also keep in mind that without a network card you're limited to ethernet cord, and being close to the router.
Phanteks Eclipse P400S, Enthoo Pro to name a few. You could do research into this if you want more options.
You should go with the Phanteks case because its larger, has more cable routing in the back, has a PSU shroud, has a plentora of fan/rad mounting options, and has better air flow design from front to back.
Edit: Spelling, Grammar
I understand you're looking for a tempered glass from the cases you selected.
These are beautiful cases, but you must be aware that any component that doesn't match will easily be seen. Tempered glass on both sides (Enthoo Evolv) will impose more cable management demands, and you must carefully consider each part, especially your power supply. Full or Semi-Modular with sleeved cables are a necessity (ketchup and mustard are gross).
For the other two, you have some forgiveness with the solid back panel.
The S340 Elite has the addition of a cable routing shield of sorts which gives it the upper hand against the 460X. The psu is also more easily installed and removed.
However, the 460X is wider, and allows for more space in the back panel area. It also has a tempered glass front panel, and more fan mounting locations with a higher degree of adjustability (3 front, 2 top, 1 back)
The decision is yours, but look at completed builds using these parts to help your decision. Personally, I'd choose the 460x for its fan mounting and extra room.
Personally, Enthoo Evolv is not my first choice. S340 Elite only in black, and Corsair only if I could change the fan LEDs
Sorry, just emphasizing.
The case comes with three 120mm fans, which you can easily relocate to the top as exhausts.
Good luck with your build good sir.
The 140mm mounts would place the rad furthest up, so it does not touch the bottom. This rad is only 280mm (11", if you'd like), NOT 360mm (14 1/8") WHICH IS THE AVAILABLE SPACE
so you can still use the drive mount on the bottom of the case, given that youre only using one 3.5" drive.
My computer uses this case, so im looking at it right now.
LOOK, 280mm rad AND a 3.5" drive on the bottom of the case
The front comes with 3x120mm fans, or you can put 2x140mm fans, which will leave 80mm of height.
One 3.5" can be mounted on the bottom, as in not on a drive tray, the case "floor," 80mm below where your rad will be.
The fans and rad will be too thick for all the drive trays.
Velcro will be able to hold the hdd flat, but I wouldn't transporting the case with the drive present, ie take it out before you decide to bring it to a LAN party.
There is a drive bay suitable for a 3.5" on the bottom of the case.
If you mount the 280mm rad so that it populates the top 2 of the 3 front 120mm spaces, it should not interfere.
There are also 2x2.5" ssd mounts on the psu shroud
check the detailed images here http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I44ES4I/?tag=pcpapi-20