Click on the links you posted. Tech specs for Corsair AF120 LED Static Pressure: .75mm/H2O is awful for radiators.
MasterLiquid Lite 240: scroll down to specifications.
FAN AIR PRESSURE: 2.34 mmH2O ± 10%
These are the links you posted that go straight to the main websites. For radiator fans you need static air pressure. We're looking at 2.34 vs. 0.75. The Corsair fans have a value of less than 1. It's terrible.
Check your temps under load for the stock Cooler master fans and then swap fans and check temps again for the Corsair fans under load. I guarantee you will see a big difference.
No idea, might as well try them yourself. I'm just talking about the fans from a technical perspective. I used the links you posted to check the fan specs. The Corsair fans will not do a good job in cooling your radiator even at max speed. But if you aren't running a really hot CPU, I guess it should be okay.
The cooler master AIO already comes with good static pressure fans for radiators at 2.34mm/H2O. The Corsair fans are 0.75mm/H2O. Are you sure about spending more money for worse fans? In any case it's up to you.
It doesn't matter at all for AIOs. Rotate it however it will fit for you.
Which 240mm rad are you buying? Depending on the model you buy, replacing the stock fans that come with the rad might be a mistake. For instance, if you buy a Corsair rad, you will control the fans via the iCUE software, or if you buy NZXT's Kraken series radiators, you will be using CAM. If the fans you buy aren't compatible with the AIO manufacturer's PWM control, your fans cannot be controlled properly (meaning instead of having full 0-100% speed control, it'll be more like 0, 25, 100% and that's it). Sorry if this is confusing, but it is a pretty big deal if you want to control your cooling as well as noise levels.
Just put them on front of the rad.
If you place them in front of the rad, it will push air through the fins and cause some turbulence. Supposedly this is better for cooling components inside your system due to how convection works, but it will be slightly noisier (though honestly I can't really tell and I'm pretty sensitive to noise as I play at night). If you place them behind the rad, they will pull air in through the fins and the air flow coming from the fans will not be turbulent. As far as cooling for the rad itself, it really makes no noticeable difference. I generally prefer push.
As for rad placement, since you've got the H500, you don't really have a choice and it'll go in front which is perfectly fine. I don't like top mounted radiators as I have an open shroud GPU that dumps too much heat and barely even benefits from having the radiator on top as opposed to in front of the case.
$2000 is way overkill for 60fps at 1080p. I bought my brother a GTX 1660 for his old system (i5-4460 with 8GB DDR3) and he gets 60fps on ultra settings for just about every game. With that kind of money, you should set your bar a little higher, either pushing to 165+ fps at 1080p or 1440p at 80-100 fps depending on settings. I prefer ultrawide 1440p, but the monitor might set you back a bit too much. In any case, if all you want is 1080p at 60fps, you could probably spend half the money and be fine.
I would have to strongly advise against the H150i. It's terrible and couldn't keep my 9900k cooled even at 5.0GHz with the stock fans (temps hit 90C before I had to terminate). The ML120s that come with it are pure garbage. When I replaced them with be quiet! Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWMs (running at 55% RPM), only then was the H150i able to keep it cooled (around 75C). I returned the H150i and use the X72 Kraken as the fans that come with it are comparable to the Silent Wings 3 (just slightly louder at higher speeds, but almost the same at 50-60%). With the X72, I can keep 5.1GHz cooled fairly easily (can keep fans at 60%).
If you want a 360mm radiator, definitely go with the X72 Kraken, but even the 280mm CLCs are very comparable in performance. EVGA, NZXT, and even Corsair have good 280mm products. Just the H150i is awful because the fans that come with it can't push air for anything. While they do run silent even at the max 1600 RPM, just don't expect them to cool your system if you plan to overclock. If you keep it at stock speed, you'll be fine, but then why buy the 9900k.
I obsessed over this for two weeks. I tried getting different coolers even, but in the end I returned everything and kept my build as is. The bend is slight enough that it doesn't touch the other stick, and it doesn't seem to affect temps or performance in any way. As for the cooler itself, it outperformed every other cooler that I tried to replace it with (mostly due to the fans as they are all the same pump and 360mm radiator). In the end, don't worry about it as it won't break.
Nice. When I put my build together, I wasn't sure about NZXT, but after a couple of months, I'm really happy I went with the H700 and X72. I tried using but ended up returning the Corsair H150i Pro as it really is a crap cooler. The ML120s that come with it are total junk compared to the Aer P fans that come with the X72. Congrats on the build, and if you plan on overclocking, you definitely went with the better cooler.
Wow, congratulations. I'm really interested in doing something like that myself. Got two kids and a full time job but someday I will find or make the time to do something like this. Thanks for sharing.
Looking at the spec sheets from Cooler Master and NZXT, from a cooling standpoint, it looks like the fans that come with the ML360R are very comparable to the X72. Max fan air flow and air pressure are slightly below the Aer P fans from NZXT, however the Cooler Master fans are about 25% quieter at max speed. They should perform similarly. The main big difference is that Cooler Master only has a 2 year warranty compared to NZXT's 6 year warranty.
So you have to weigh the difference between the warranty and the RGB fans if that makes a difference to you aesthetically. I will say though that the X72 infinity mirror design on the pump looks really nice, but it is pretty big. I have an MSI board which has the DIMM slots slightly closer to the CPU socket than other boards, so the tubes are slightly pushing against my memory (only because I have all four DIMM slots filled, this won't affect you if you only install two sticks of memory). Technically I could mount the pump rotated 90 degrees, but I prefer that it's on right side up.
As for custom loops, I do plan to do one on my next build in a few years, but right now, I don't really have any good resources for that. Sorry.
I briefly owned the H150i Pro and have to say that it is a pretty poor performing AIO. Linus Tech Tips also just did a video regarding AIOs in general (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23vjWtUpItk&t=0s), and their testing showed that the H150i Pro performed worse than the 240mm AIO. Not sure which model 240mm it was but the darker fan blades leads me to believe that the ML120 Pro fans were on that model which can spin up to 2000 RPM (the regular ML120 only spin up to 1600 RPM).
In any case, the H150i Pro could not keep my 9900k at 5.2GHz cooled under load. I hit 90C before I had to stop testing. If you swap out the garbage stock ML120 fans with something better (I used Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM), you can definitely keep your system cooled. However, that is a pretty expensive swap, especially on top of the cost of the H150i Pro itself. As for me, I returned it and continued using my X72 Kraken. The Aer P fans that come with the Kraken are nearly identical to the Silent Wings 3 fans except that they are louder if you run them at full speed. If you keep them at roughly 60% however, they are pretty quiet.
I haven't tried out the Cooler Master 360mm CLC myself, but I've heard that they are about as good as the X72, and I imagine that's due to the fans since they all pretty much use the same pump. What I like about the X72 however is that it comes with a 6 year warranty. That's a long time to be covered for leaks or pump failure. Also, it can keep my 9900k at 5.2GHz cooled, so there's that. If you do plan to go higher though, be prepared to hear some pretty loud fans. But even at max, I doubt you could keep higher than 5.4GHz cooled (would probably need a custom loop for that).
One of the Amazon reviews says yes.
Going by your list and $850 as the budget, that leaves you with only around $30 for fans. Your case only comes with a singe fan as intake, but your system doesn't really require a ton of cooling. For $30, you can probably only get one or two high performance fans, or you could get either a 3 pack or 5 pack of AsiaHorse RGB fans. They aren't the highest performance, but they do have RGB and you do get 3-5 fans depending ($25 for 3 or $35 for 5). With your budget and your build, that might be a good option. Here are links if you want to check:
Which case are you buying and what is your budget? Do you want RGB fans or are you looking for quiet, high performance fans? Need to provide a bit more info before anyone can help.
Your understanding is correct. For CLCs, it doesn't matter.
Thanks. I am aware of the implications of radiator placement, but perhaps I'm thinking way too much into it. I think the more important factor is that I'm unwilling to run my fans at 100% due to noise and waking up my wife since night time is my only real gaming time. I run the be quiet! fans at 55%-70% which is still providing good heat dissipation, but I'd likely have to run them at max to cool my system overclocked that much.
In any case, I ended up going down to 5.0GHz on all cores and 1.28v. Looks like everything runs stable, though I did take a small hit to performance (my game benchmarks show roughly 7% decrease on some games, but no change in a few others). The best part, however, is that temps have lowered to 78C max. Most games don't go above 65C, but Anthem for some reason runs hotter than every other title (even though CPU% use is roughly the same as other games).
Thanks so much for your help, and I guess I'm good to go.
I'm just using the game boost 4 setting on the MEG Z390 Ace. It clocks the cores at 5.3, 5.3, 5.2, 5.1, 5.1, 5.0, 5.0, and 5.0 respectively. Voltage is 1.32 and it runs stable. Case is NZXT H700 and cooler is X72 Kraken mounted on top. Fans are Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM. They are pretty much rated the same as the Aer P fans that come with the X72 except that they run quieter (they also have slightly higher static air pressure, but air flow is pretty much identical).
When I had the radiator front mounted, temps were much cooler at around 65C maxed, but I've heard that if you have the radiator mounted with the tubes on top, there is a chance for air to get into the loop. But the 360mm radiator can't be vertically mounted with the tubes coming out the bottom (tubes aren't long enough). Also, I don't want my entire intake to be obstructed by the radiator and in front, even behind the dust filters, it is collecting a decent amount of dust. With that said, do you think it's still better to put it back on the front or leave it on top? GPU is 2080 Ti with open air cooler, but it seems that a lot of the heat does get vented out of the rear (140mm Silent Wings 3). Thanks so much for all of your help so far.
Ahh, I see. But why is my motherboard showing the CPU temp as 52C then? Which part of the CPU is it measuring? So MSI afterburner and CAM are more accurate in showing 82C?
Just to be clear, all of the hardware monitors are showing the same temps while idle. MSI Afterburner, CAM, and the motherboard show 36-38C when idle. When I load up Metro Exodus and play it for around an hour, the temps on Afterburner jump around from 40-60C until stabilizing around 60-65C. But on the motherboard, the LED for the CPU temp only shows around 47C. And then of course, with Anthem for around 40 minutes, the first two showed as 82C while my motherboard showed 52C.
I understand what you mean regarding the cooler and the liquid temp, but why are the temperature sensors so different between my motherboard and Afterburner and CAM? They are all supposedly measuring the CPU.
Yes, I believe there are likely two different sensors, I'm just wondering which one is measured where physically or which one is more important for determining safe temps?
The liquid temp is taken from CAM and it topped out at 51C. The LED on the motherboard showed 52, and it is supposed to display the CPU temp after the system boots into the OS. I mentioned the motherboard model in the topic but anyway, most of the time, the motherboard LED is the same as the readings from CAM and MSI Afterburner. Sometimes it is different by 1-2C, but temps are always fluctuating at idle by 1-2C anyway.
To me, I'm thinking that the sensor for the motherboard in determining CPU temp should be the top of the chip where it makes contact with the cold plate and pump? Because it was the same as the liquid temp and that's where temps stabilized. But then where is CAM and MSI Afterburner getting 82C? The internal of the chip? But why would the difference be 30C? That's what I'm wondering, and which temp do I choose to determine what is safe for my system?
Most of these CLCs are going to have the same performance due to all of them using the same gen 6 Asetek pump. The main differences come down to the fans that come with the cooler to remove heat from the radiator and whether or not you want RGB. Oh, and if there is software to control the pumps and fans.
Oh, you should also leave XMP on. Don't turn it off for anything.
Out of curiosity, are you able to control your fan RPM in CAM with those Noctua fans? From what I've heard, replacing stock radiator fans and plugging different brand fans into the PWM controller may not allow you to control fan speeds in CAM. It's because not every manufacturer uses the same PWM signals. Just curious how you are controlling those Noctua fans. Also, I know this because I tried the Corsair H150i Pro cooler with Silent Wings 3 fans and they don't work in the iCUE software unless the fans are 25%, 100% or 0% RPM.
I think your voltage is set a little too high for 4.7GHz. Just checking comments from other users of 8700k CPUs, 1.36v is good for 5.0GHz. You might be able to lower down to 1.25v, or maybe 1.275 if you want to be conservative.
As for the cooler, it still should be able to handle your system. First try lowering the voltage as that should make the difference. Otherwise, I'm not sure. I think your liquid temps should go higher than 40C before your CPU reaches 80C. Your fans are obviously doing a good job in keeping your liquid temp down, but I still think it's the pump or that the cooler isn't seated very well on your CPU.
Can't you just go into the BIOS and change the boot order so that it boots from the USB drive and not the SSD?
As someone who has a 2080 Ti and an ultrawide 1440p monitor, everyone who posted above is correct. Ultra settings, especially if you are enabling DXR for the games that support it, will be very demanding on your GPU. Yes, ultrawide is about 30% more pixels than a standard QHD monitor, but I'm averaging around 80fps on Metro Exodus, Assassin's Creed Odyssey, Shadow of the Tomb Raider, and Battlefield 5 (ultra settings and DXR enabled to high on all except Odyssey which doesn't support it). Even on titles like Watch Dogs 2 and Deus Ex Mankind Divided, I can't max every anti aliasing and post processing option (though it honestly doesn't seem to be noticeable visually anyway) as it'll only run at 30fps. Using the Geforce Experience that comes with Nvidia drivers, you can get an idea of what options you need to lower to optimize performance and maintain the best visuals.
With all of that in mind, you need to determine which settings you are willing to lower down to in order to achieve your desired 144fps. Then you can narrow down which card is best for you.
I think your pump speed is too low if your liquid temps are still that low. Either you need to set it higher in CAM, or perhaps your pump mechanism has a problem internally.
It's either that or your have air trapped in your pump or you need to reapply thermal paste. If it's air trapped in the pump, you can just try tilting the cooler back and forth to help work it out. Also, since your cooler is front mounted, make sure it is installed so that the tubes are coming out the bottom of the radiator rather than the top.
So set the pump speed higher in CAM (performance or custom, not silent - honestly for me it's hard to even tell as it always seems quiet to me) and do the thing for the air bubbles. Finally if those don't work, if possible reinstall cooler with tubes coming out of the bottom and reapply thermal paste. If all of that doesn't help, then you will probably need to RMA for a new pump.
Nevermind, those fans I mentioned that are $80 are refurbished (they use the term 'renewed'). But I suppose if they work, they work?
Just to give you an idea, if your liquid temps are still low (below 40C under load), then most likely the cold plate isn't in complete contact with your CPU. As for thermal paste, it should be fine, but if you have to remove the pump to reseat the cooler, you should probably wipe the old stuff off with alcohol and apply your own (I use Thermal Grizzly).
If your liquid temps are getting high, like 50C or above, then your fans aren't working hard enough and you probably need to set a higher fan curve. You should have CAM to check your liquid temp, and through it you should easily be able to check and set your fan curve. Just make sure that your liquid temps don't exceed 60C or the liquid could begin to permeate into the tube material.
AIO or CLCs (All-in-one or closed-loop-coolers) like these generally perform better in 240, 280, or 360mm versions. Most users feel that 120mm CLCs don't perform well for the price and you'd be better off with an air tower cooler instead. I have the X72 Kraken (360mm) and it works very well on the 9900k. If you go with an 8700k or 9700k in the future, I would go for a 240/280mm cooler at the very least.
I saw some benchmarks from guru3d or some tech website that pretty much showed the same thing. Kinda disappointing, but I'm happy with my FTW3 Ultra as at least I paid the actual MSRP ($1349 not the $1499 you see everywhere) and didn't have to pay tax.
If you can't return them, you can always try selling them. Otherwise, you still have a really nice system. I have an NZXT case myself which I really like, but I kinda regret not going white. Really beautiful.
For $1500+, I would have gotten a high end 2080 Ti, although I guess EVGA's Kingpin is $1899. SLI isn't really getting much support lately.
The X62 is a really good CLC. Are you mounting it on top? If you mount it on the front, you should get better temps. Did you check your liquid temp? How high is it getting?
Just to give you an idea, I have the 9900k and the X72 Kraken and it can keep it cool while overclocked to 5.3GHz. The X62 performs very similarly to the X72 (most 280mm CLCs are about as good at dissipating heat as 360mm CLCs if you check Gamers Nexus article and videos).
Wow, that was fast... Corsair printing their own money.
The LL120 RGB 3 pack with lighting node pro is currently $79.99 as well. Pretty good discount.
They are on sale on Amazon today. $80 for a 3 pack and lightning node pro. Your lucky day.
I bought an ibuypower system that did the exact same thing. It would randomly power down completely (but only under load) and restart itself. I noticed that they had given me a 650W instead of the 750W PSU advertised on the specs, but even with a 9900k and 2080 Ti (which the system had), it should be enough. In any case, they switched out the PSU and it worked, but in the end I returned the system and built my own (there were a lot more issues that made me feel like they didn't even test the system before letting me pick it up). Hope things work out for you.
Just so you don't feel bad, as someone who tried using be quiet! Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM fans on the H150i Pro, it was a disaster. They are not compatible to be controlled in iCUE due to using a different PWM signal, so they either spin at 25%, 100% (which is ironically very loud) or off. The ML120 fans that come with the Corsair AIOs, on the other hand, are quiet, even at max RPMs (1600). It's not a bad idea to stick with them unless you really want to spend the extra money for the RGB. You can't even really sell the fans if you want because you probably won't have screws for them (buyer wouldn't be happy) and the cable is short enough that it is only really usable for attaching to the pump. So really, it's just a waste of money IMO.
Yeah, I decided to use them and return the be quiet! fans that I tried to use with the H150i Pro. They don't seem to be compatiable with iCUE and only spin at 25% or 100% (which is ironically very loud), so I'm returning them.
Oops, didn't realize. In any case, I ended up using the fans as they can be controlled on iCUE. The be quiet! high speed PWM fans that I tried to use aren't on the same signal or frequency as Corsair's PWM so I had to return them. Will take down the ML fans since I'm using them.
Mounting a radiator on the front as opposed to the back will allow for fresh air to be drawn into the fins. Naturally, temps will be lower, but the hot air expelled from the radiator will be directed towards the GPU. Since we're only dealing with a 120mm radiator, however, you might be able to get away with mounting it on the upper front of the case. That way the hot air will likely just get pulled out of the top exhaust and hopefully not affect your GPU temps.
For fan direction, you want the two front fans as intake and the top and rear as exhaust. Heat naturally rises, and though case fans can push against it, you might as well just take advantage of it. Hope this helps and I do understand as I've switched placement of my radiator and fans and tested quite a few times.
Yes, the hardware is excellent, but it's the UEFI/BIOS which leaves a bit to be desired for some. At least for me I had the Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra, and I had an impossible time trying to install Windows on my M.2 NVMe drive (Samsung 970 Evo). I had to settle for installing on a regular SATA SSD instead. Later on when I ran into numerous freezing issues, I returned the board and got the MSI MEG Z390 Ace. Installed Windows on the 970 Evo the first time (there is just one setting I need to enable for UEFI only mode) and everything is running perfectly. Had the board for almost a month now and not a single freeze and overclocking is a breeze (no thermal throttling and everything is stable). It's about the same price as the Aorus Master but the Master does have slightly better temps as the heatpipe and VRM heatsinks are slightly better. If you aren't going to buy an M.2 NVMe drive, maybe just go with the Master, but up to you.
Well, the EVGA Z390 Dark is $500 so that is probably an indicator of his budget :)
It doesn't matter which one you plug it into. I tried both and it really doesn't matter.
Just wanted to mention, I got a Corsair H150i myself, and I had a bunch of clicking noises while the pump was working and temps were really bad. That's air trapped in the loop. You just need to keep running the pump on balanced or extreme for at least a few hours. Turned the system off and overnight it seems to have gotten better. Temps are normal and the clicking sound is gone. Hopefully you won't have air to begin with, but if you do, don't be alarmed and just try my suggestion.
I have this motherboard. There is no integrated video on this board.
2080 Ti and 64GB of DDR4-3600 for a $300 1080p ultrawide? Need to upgrade to 3440x1440 @ 120-144hz or 4k if you want. I recommend 1440p ultrawide myself as you get better frames and once you go ultrawide, you can't go back.
Found this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214096&Description=360mm%20aio&ignorebbr=1&cm_re=360mm_aio-_-35-214-096-_-Product
Here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcZjwpH8cEY