Depends on your budget. This is a nice 1440p 60hz monitor for under $300:
With that monitor you will be fine with the 2060. If you want to go 144hz, this is a solid one, but it's $415 + tax and you'll definitely need to go up to the 2070:
Those are some pretty solid options if you don't want to spend too much time researching. If you do spend more time researching, you might find something more specifically suited to your needs, but the ones I suggested are good for gaming.
Yes of course. So which 1440p monitor? If you get one with 100+hz and want to use it to its full potential, you'll most likely want to go with the 2070. It might be slightly less bang for the buck than the 2060, but the price has dropped enough from the $599 reference card to be worth considering, especially if you want to keep those high settings for 1440p.
Probably gonna have to get a better cooler then. Or is the 212 good enough for an 8700k? Certainly not overclocked right?
Rather than simply going for bang for your buck, at this point you should look at your target resolution and framerate (i.e. what you monitor can support). If it's 1440p at 60fps then you can stop at the 2060, but if you want to go up to 100+fps at that resolution (with high settings), you'd need to step up to the 2070. If your target resolution is lower, you can adjust the fps accordingly (just look up benchmarks and you'll find everything you need).
Hm, maybe it has something to do with Silent Wings PWM fans then. Really strange. Maybe it's safer to get the 3 pin DC versions of the fans? I really have no idea why they are acting up. In any case, I don't buy their products any longer.
Depends on your case and how much RGB you have in it. I have the NZXT H700 and no RGB fans (but RGB cooler and memory). Only the video card 8 pin PCIe cables are really visible. The 24 pin ATX is mostly hidden by the cable management bar on the H700 and even blocked behind the tubes of my AIO cooler. The two EPS cables for the most part are barely noticeable (and honestly, unless you are an extreme LN2 overclocker, you only need one EPS cable).
So at least for me, I'd get two 8 pin PCIe cables for the video card (depending on your card, you may need less), and maybe one EPS cable. Unless I change cases, I'm not going to get the 24 pin ATX for the motherboard, and definitely don't need SATA cables). Although I guess it's a different story if you have a case with glass panels on both sides.
Maybe it is a bad fan.
For me, I had be quiet! Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM fans for about three weeks, and suddenly they would ramp up to full speed and go back to the fixed 50% that I set them at. I replaced these fans three times from Amazon and they all had this problem. I don't know if it was a bad batch of fans or what. I also had them connected to my motherboard (MSI MEG Z390 Ace). Now I have the Noctua Chromax fans (also PWM) instead and it's been about two weeks. If they end up doing the same thing I guess it would be a motherboard problem? But I also just replaced my motherboard last week due to a bad DIMM slot. So, I'm hoping there won't be any problems because if it happens again, I'm not sure what it could be.
You can just upload to imgur and post a link here. But anyway, I'm glad that you found something that helped you! Frames definitely look better and about where you should be based on your system. Great job!
I hope you're joking. Owning your own business is way more work than a full time worker that clocks out and goes home. You need to constantly be thinking about your business, your competition, your financing (payroll, taxes, expenses), and a lot more...
I dunno about planes or boats, but if you want women, money is the worst way to attract a woman. If that's how you found someone in the first place, that's all they are going to want in the end. My life changed dramatically for the better in the last five years (getting married, having two kids), but it didn't happen from wanting nice things or being tired of working. It came simply from a desire to better myself. It wasn't easy by any means, but it gave my life purpose beyond wanting such things.
Not to say that it's a sin to want what you want, but if you are going to go out and do something drastic, you need deeper motivation than that if you want to ultimately become successful. Good luck.
Would you recommend any good sites for comparing fans? I've watched several different youtube videos and they all do different things. Everyone has wildly different results and that's why I just look at the manufacturer specs. Do you have a source that you trust? Just want to find a good starting point. Thanks.
If you are getting 65-75fps in AC Odyssey, that sounds about right for 1080p on your card. But FC5 should be up to 100+ fps. Did you run the Rivatuner OSD on FC5? Check your CPU usage to see if it reaches 100%. Otherwise, make sure you have the latest drivers or check your GPU temperature. Are you reaching or exceeding 80C?
Oops, forgot that you have an 8700k, you're not gonna reach 100% CPU on FC5. Try checking GPU drivers and temps.
As for longevity, if you aren't writing 2TB on the 660p every day for a few years, it will last you quite a while, but performance-wise, it is about half the speed of the ADATA 1TB version (the 500gb and 250gb are slightly slower) and Samsung 970 Evo. Even at half the speed, we are still talking about 3 times faster than regular SATA SSDs at around 1500MB/sec, but the ADATA is 3500MB/sec. At least for me, I'll spend $50 on that.
970 Evo and ADATA XPG Pro are almost dead even (ADATA slightly higher on synthetic benchmarks). Since the price is about $100 less, no reason to buy the 970 Evo (I own the 970 Evo and just bought the ADATA XPG to install tonight).
The Intel 660p for most users is perfectly fine and even cheaper. It uses QLC storage technology which makes it slower when it fills up, but considering you can just use the price difference to buy a bigger drive that won't fill up as fast, it's also a good option. If your purpose is gaming, it's fine, but if it's workstation, don't use the drive for that.
Someone recently pointed out in another topic the EVGA Black 2070 which is only $489 on Amazon. Seems to have good reviews.
Ah okay. Well, for streaming, you generally want a better CPU, and since you would be pairing that with a slightly weaker GPU, that might be better if you plan to stream often. Depending on your stream settings (which resolution), getting a stronger GPU with a CPU that only has 6 threads might not be enough. Yeah, if you plan to stream more, you should probably do the 9700k with the 2060.
No prob! You guys get 10% off, I eventually (after 30 days) get 3-5% in rewards. Feel free to share the code to anyone anytime :)
Hm, ok, so how are you supposed to know what a fan's performance is like? I didn't know this and just go by their specs.
The Aer P fan that comes with it is a pretty decently performing fan. If you want to maintain similar cooling performance, try to find a fan with similar specs (static pressure: 2.93mm/H20 @ 2000RPM). Or if you aren't running anything that gets too hot, I guess you could replace it with whatever.
I have an associate code for buyers to get an extra 10% off most items (5% off video cards):
I think it'll also apply on top of the discount you already get from the B stock sale. Save yourself some more money!
I'd go with Fractal or NZXT. I have the H700 myself and I do like it, but I wish it had some of the nicer features of the newer H500 (but the H500 is a bit too small with not enough fan support for my build, similar to yours). I saw the 570x crystal at Micro Center and wasn't really impressed by it, but it does have all glass panels. It might be a better option for you if you still plan to buy 2 sets of LL RGB fans. In the H700, you won't notice the fans in front as much since the front panel is steel.
A bit of a side note, for the same price, you can get the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB that has faster write speed than the 970 Evo, and it's twice the capacity: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zR3H99/adata-sx8200-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-asx8200pnp-1tt-c
I just bought one myself and have it coming in today.
If it were me, I would.
I would get this: https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=sr_1_2?crid=PCUE5JNZSDWV&keywords=adata+xpg+sx8200+pro&qid=1557952498&s=gateway&sprefix=adata+xp%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-2
It's slightly faster than the 970 Evo and much cheaper: https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Adata-XPG-SX8200-Pro-NVMe-PCIe-M2-1TB-vs-Samsung-970-Evo-NVMe-PCIe-M2-1TB/m638791vsm494791
I have both the 970 Evo 1TB and 860 Evo 1TB. Yes, the 970 Evo is insanely fast, but outside of installing games or Windows once (it is noticeably faster), you won't notice the performance increase as much. Mostly, just going from mechanical to SSD is the most noticeable leap. NVMe SSD to SATA SSD for game loading is like 11 seconds to 15 seconds. Is it really worth the money? That's up to you.
Honestly, I'd go with the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro (https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=sr_1_2?crid=PCUE5JNZSDWV&keywords=adata+xpg+sx8200+pro&qid=1557952498&s=gateway&sprefix=adata+xp%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-2). It is hella cheaper than the 970 Evo and actually has faster write speeds. At only $155, it's barely more expensive than the 860 Evo. I actually purchased one today to install alongside the 970 Evo, and I'm giving my 860 Evo to my brother (buying the drive mostly to give my bro the SSD, but also just don't want any more SATA cables anywhere). If I could still return my 970 Evo, I would just buy two of the ADATA drives and save myself some money.
Oh, I never said I liked it. I just said it looks crazy. It looks better in the little jewel box thing they present it in. In a motherboard, I prefer the regular Trident Z RGB or Corsair RGB Pro sticks.
Ahh, didn't realize that I did have a case selected. Thanks for that.
Which cooler did you purchase? The package contents should include the appropriate parts to mount the cooler.
Yeah, that particular ADATA M.2 isn't listed anymore for some reason (saw it the other day though). And yes, that motherboard is glorious overkill and supports up to three M.2 SSDs.
This isn't really much of a decision. Weaker CPU, weaker GPU vs stronger CPU, stronger GPU. If you can afford it, just get the best components you can.
Maybe if your combo was 9600k/2070 vs. 9700k/2060 there might actually be a choice worth discussing.
Also, considering that the Gigabyte 2070 is down to $480 on Amazon (there are even cheaper models on newegg after rebate), I'd say to go with the 2070 for sure.
Damn! Not bad! I like the choice of the motherboard as well. No need to cheap out on a sub $200 board when you are going 9900k and 2080 Ti. The Trident Z Royal is also the craziest looking memory I've ever seen (saw it in person at Micro Center).
Pretty solid but I'd get the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB for $157.99 on Amazon. Might as well use one of your M.2 slots and not worry about SATA cables anywhere (also get the very best in terms of performance for a measly $10 extra). Here is the link to the part (https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23).
Also, I really like the Aorus Extreme Waterforce card. I got to test it out and the RGB on that thing is insane (my 4 year old boy was clapping with joy when he saw it).
For some reason, PCPP is no longer listing the MSI Z390 Godlike (never mind, now I see it). So add about $350 on top of this list. Also, I'd get the EVGA K|NGP|N 2080 Ti which also isn't listed (it's $1899 so add an extra $550). That'll bring you to $5000.
Whatever you decide, don't cheap out on a motherboard with the 9900k. Some of these part lists are including sub $200 boards. The only ones that have VRMs to support overclocking the 9900k are Gigabyte at that price. With $5000 to spend, cheaping out on a sub $200 board is not a good idea. Also, don't waste your money on a Titan RTX. You're burning your money for sake of burning money on that thing. A 2080 Ti like the one I have (EVGA FTW3 Ultra) is pretty much near the top as far as 2080 Ti cards. The only ones that would perform marginally better would be the GALAX (if they still have any in stock from their store only) or the K|NGP|N. Every other top end 2080 Ti (ASUS Strix OC, Gigabyte Aorus Extreme, Zotac AMP Extreme, MSI Gaming X Trio) is going to perform within a percent or two of each other (within margin of error).
PCPartPicker Part List
If you have a 1080p 144hz monitor but you are only getting 90fps at most, your monitor isn't really holding you back. If you are exceeding your monitor's 144hz refresh rate with something like 160+fps, then it would be a bottleneck.
For a 1080, those frames seem a bit low unless you are totally maxing out all settings like volumetric clouds in AC Odyssey. Which games are only running at 65-85fps? At 1080p resolution, you should be closer to 90fps average. Games like The Witcher 3 at max settings should be well over 100fps, same as Far Cry 5.
Also, if you want to see what is your bottleneck, the best way is to use an OSD like Rivatuner statistics server (comes with MSI Afterburner). If your CPU isn't at 100% usage but your GPU is (generally will hover around 95-98%), then you're GPU bound (as many of us are). As for me, I'm playing at 3440x1440 and I'm totally GPU bound on just about every game (unless I'm over 100fps in which case my GPU will be under 90% as I keep my monitor at 100hz).
Not really. The static pressure rating is barely 10% better than the LL RGBs which are already bad to begin with. ML is 1.78 mmH2O and LL is 1.61 mmH2O from Corsair's own tech specs (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/RGB-%26-LED-Fans/ml-pro-rgb-config/p/CO-9050076-WW#tab-tech-specs and https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/ml-config/p/CO-9050071-WW#tab-tech-specs).
Unless you're overclocking something like a 9900k, it probably doesn't matter. But if you are, I wouldn't put anything with less than 3.0 mm/H20 on my rad.
I dunno, I just plugged them straight into my motherboard (MSI MEG Z390 Ace) and set the fan curve to 50-70% based on system temp (they should never be spinning up to max for any reason). And it was on 3 different sets of 3 120mm High Speed PWM fans (9 total fans). Maybe the High Speed PWM models have a problem? For some reason, they are cheaper than the non high speed models on Amazon.
In any case, the Noctua Chromax fans are incredible. The only negative is that the "extension cable" is short as hell (maybe 5-6 inches?). Thankfully I have a splitter that can chain them all to a header on the board.
You only really need a 2080 Ti if you want to max settings at 3440x1440 or go for 4k 60fps. Though if you really want to use DXR on ultra and run 1440p at 144fps, you will need the 2080 Ti. It's debatable if it's actually worth it and only three games (plus a few modded games) actually support real time ray tracing anyway. IMO if you aren't going to go ultrawide 1440p or 4k, save the money.
For overclocking, those temps are reasonable. The CPU is still well within safe levels and the GPU is still below threshold (if you use something like MSI Afterburner, the thermal limit is 84C). Considering that your CPU radiator is already top mounted, there is nothing more you can do for your GPU other than to swap the cooler for something like an AIO.
Well, just looked at your case. If you want to improve temps, try removing the front glass panel. Looking at a couple of reviews though, apparently that case already has good thermal performance. You're probably not going to reduce temps that much more unless you go custom loop, or front mount your CPU with a 280 or 360mm radiator (and maybe add an AIO to your GPU). What is your system specs?
If you're running any kind of hardware monitor program, you'd see your core speeds dip somewhere when your temps (either core temps or VRM temps) get too high. That would be throttling.
Your system shutting down completely is a different matter. Maybe check your PSU?
Aside from the slight overclocks (which make less than a 5% difference in performance), I think the PCB is supposed to be different for the OC version. Buildzoid mentioned that it has 10 power stages as opposed to 8 on most other 2080 Ti's (though he said it didn't really make much of a difference). It might not make a difference to most, but if you plan to replace with a custom cooler, coolers based on the reference PCB won't be compatible. That's pretty much it.
Some customer reviews say that the RGB works with the ASUS lighting software. You should also double check the listing to see if it comes with a remote. Based on what you've listed as your system, I don't think replacing them straight away is necessary. If anything, just put your system together, and if you find that after some testing that it is getting a bit too hot, or perhaps it is too noisy, and you can actually narrow it down to the cause being the included case fans, only then would I consider replacing them. The only other reason to replace them without ever testing your system first would be if you really just want the lighting effects.
It only works when you are playing. Here is a sample: https://storage-asset.msi.com/event/aio/2018/afterburner/images/Display-2.png
You don't have to display the graphs like that picture, you can just turn on the numbers.
Ok, you probably won't run into any major thermal issues with that build. If you want to replace the fans, what is the purpose? Do you want quieter fans, more airflow, or is RGB important to you? The case fan market can be pretty overwhelming, so it helps to know what you want.
For airflow and performance, Noctua makes really good fans that provide good airflow that also run pretty quiet. Unfortunately, they run around $20 per fan. EVGA similarly has high performance fans that run quiet up to around 50% RPM, but loud at max speed (but for regular case fans, you really don't need to run them at max, ever). Currently, you can get them for 50% off at $9.99 per fan (if you use my code, you can get an extra 10% off: 77AZ9YDU58R6SSG ):
If you want RGB, you can get AsiaHorse RGB fans on Amazon for pretty cheap (3 pack and 5 pack options for around $25 and $35 last I checked). As far as actual airflow, they won't be as good as Noctua or EVGA (not sure about noise levels either).
So I gave you a few options based on common case fan preferences: airflow, noise, lighting. Hope those help.
Great job! Glad it helped!
Don't get be quiet! fans. I've returned 9 so far on Amazon because after 3 weeks they are making clicking noises and randomly spinning up to full RPM. They worked perfectly from the start but suddenly just go crazy on me.
Bought Noctua Chromax fans and will replace the be quiet! fans tomorrow. Just be warned if you buy be quiet! fans. At least buy from somewhere with a good return policy.
Noticed that you are running a full set of be quiet! fans. How have they been working out for you so far? I'm on my third set (returned two previous sets of 3 of the 120mm Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM fans) and I'm about to return these too. After three weeks, I'm hearing clicking noises from the fans and they randomly spin up to full RPMs for a second or two. I have them set on my motherboard to run at a fixed 50%. They were perfect until just a couple days ago. This will be 9 fans total returned to Amazon in about 5 weeks and I've just about had it with be quiet! products. Have yours fared better?
I dunno, those fans come with molex connectors instead of 3 pin or 4 pin. Seems kinda cheap to me, but I suppose you get what you pay for. Also, unless you keep that front door open, those tiny little slits on the side of the front panel are not enough ventilation for good airflow. I guess for the price, it's pretty decent value, but if you replace the fans, it gets a lot more expensive.
I guess the main question is: what is your build? Replace the fans only if your system will get really hot. But then, with that kind of airflow (unless you keep that front door open), maybe you should look at other cases.
The far end of the bottom (motherboard side). You can see exactly where if you check the pictures in my build. That spot doesn't interfere with the fan and provides the most support.
It is, but some of the rumors are just too ridiculous. While AMD probably wants to try and get some of the market share back on video cards, they are also just trying to make money. They can't sell their newest flagship card for $500. I want to see prices go down considerably (even having already paid $1349 for a 2080 Ti), but spreading a rumor like that seems too unbelievable to me. IMO, I think that leaked PCB image won't be for the Navi 20. Even for the 10, I don't see why they would want to continue with blower style fans on their reference cards. I don't think those would be very popular, especially among newcomers to the PC market.
Well there are rumors of Navi 10 coming this year and Navi 20 next year. I'm assuming that Navi 20 isn't on the same leaked PCB image (if that leaked image is even their latest prototype, could be really old and AMD is quietly chuckling to themselves). I dunno, it's all just rumors and speculation anyway.
I got it new on Amazon for $860 a few months ago and I absolutely love it. If you really want to take advantage of it, you really need a high end system. And for me, the difference between 2560x1080 and 3440x1440 at the same 34" screen size is staggering. I had an LG 34" 21:9 (2560x1080) monitor from a couple years ago, but I gave it to my son after purchasing the AW3418DW. Everything from games to just watching youtube videos is just so sharp and clean.
The only negative to this monitor are the stupid buttons instead of having a direction button for the menus. Honestly though, I don't spend much time tweaking the monitor, so it's not a huge deal for me. Otherwise, I'm very happy with this monitor and I know it will last me a while.
Yeah, I built my entire system around this monitor. It's the reason why I love PC gaming again.
As for support, what games are you talking about? Every game I play supports 3440x1440. Some of the cutscenes will have black bars on the sides, but actual gameplay, the bars disappear and you see EVERYTHING. I'm never going back to 16:9.
One way to easily check if it is overheating is to download MSI Afterburner or any other free hardware monitoring program. I like MSI Afterburner because it's easy to use and obviously free. You'll need to install the included rivatuner statistics server and then just go into the OSD and enable the GPU and CPU temperature options. If you're going above 90C, then you've got a big problem.
As for the link, with the translate options, it looks like they should have given you all of the boxes. Which GTX 1060 card did you get? If the card has a closed shroud and single fan on one side of the card, it's a blower style cooler which is the source of the noise. If it has two or three fans, it's an open air cooler which generally isn't that loud.
If your game loads up fine but consistently freezes after a couple of minutes of playing, it is either a heat issue or a bad power supply. Since it's probably more difficult for you to check your power supply, download a hardware monitoring program and check for overheating first.