Thanks, I really enjoy building systems.
My brother recently got the 1700X and MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC from Micro Center. Such a good deal and I managed to OC it to 3.8GHz. Under $250 (for those two parts) for that kind of performance was a steal! Can click the build next to my username to see the build.
That cooler is fine. I use the same one for my 9900k and it cools is very well, better than many 360mm AIOs. It can even keep it cooled overclocked but it can get a bit noisy. Non OC, I can run the fans at 50% which is really quiet and it does the job fine (when gaming at night for low noise). So for the 9700k which doesn't run as hot, it should be great for you.
As for the video card, for the same price, go with EVGA instead: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/r8smP6/evga-geforce-rtx-2080-8gb-xc-ultra-gaming-video-card-08g-p4-2183-kr
The non Aorus Gigabyte cards have some pretty crappy coolers when you get to the 2080/2080 Ti end. Noisy and the cards still get rather hot. EVGA coolers on the other hand keep the card cooled and if you don't overclock, can stay pretty silent too. For my build (can click my build but have a 2080 Ti from EVGA), gaming at night, I keep the card at 90% power limit (still performs extremely well) and keep the 9900k at stock, and my system is nearly silent (my wife can easily sleep at night just 8 feet away from my system).
That's exactly how I have my build setup, with the exact same cooler as well. You can click on my build next to my username for pictures.
Yeah, the O11 Dynamic is designed for water cooling (custom or closed loop). The O11 Air is meant for air cooling. They're both good cases if you use them for their intended purpose.
3440 x 1440 is 21:9 or ultra wide. 2560 x 1440 is 16:9 or standard widescreen. I have an ultra wide and I love it, but if you want to run games at high frames and max settings, you pretty much need a 2080 Ti. If you are getting two monitors though, no reason to buy two ultra wides. You won't be able to see everything without turning your head which would be annoying. For a two monitor setup, just get the two 16:9 displays. Or if you only want one monitor, get the ultra wide, but get a 34" not a 27".
Your temps are fine. Do you plan to overclock or do you expect to put your system under heavy loads for long periods of time? What temp does your system get under heavy load? You only mentioned moderate (does that mean gaming?). We don't really have much info. Your system specs would be appreciated.
That said, yes, the case doesn't seem to have any top ventilation, and the front... Yeah, I don't understand. Where does the air come in? Under the front panel? I don't see any ventilation anywhere.
As for larger case fans, your case already comes with a full set of 120mm fans for every available fan mount. If your case has holes for 140mm fans, you would have to remove all of your front 120mm fans (you'd be removing 3 120mm fans for 2 140mm fans, that's only if your case has holes to support it, I couldn't find that info). That isn't worth it, especially when you have to purchase those fans. Yes, 140mm fans are more efficient at moving air (when there is sufficient ventilation), but since there is one less fan, those fans have to work harder and will also end up being louder.
As for AIOs, your case can support up to a 360mm radiator on the front (120mm x 3). Radiators are designed to have fans mounted directly on them, so you can easily tell how large of a rad your case supports by looking at the fan mounts available.
The screw on the right looks like it could be a motherboard screw.
Well, the 5-7C difference is really only important if it's putting you under a certain threshold like 80C. If you are normally 65C under load, 60C isn't really worth purchasing an extra set of fans. Of course, if this lets you push an extra 100MHz out of your overclock, it's not bad, but only as long as your chip can handle it.
Anyway, which fan I would recommend really depends on what you are going for. If you want RGB and great cooling performance, the white LL120 RGB are good because they spin up to 2200 RPM and have reasonable noise levels (quiet under 1600 RPM). They are expensive though and if you don't have a white build theme, they might stick out too much. Also, the ML120 RGB fans that come with the H100i RGB Platinum are great as they spin up to 2400 RPM with good static pressure, but these versions of the ML120 RGB aren't available to purchase separately (the ones you can buy separately only spin up to 1600 RPM). Fractal and Cooler Master also have some pretty decent RGB static pressure fans that are much cheaper than Corsair. I just prefer Corsair because I like to use iCUE with the Commander Pro and control everything from there.
If you don't need the RGB or if this is for your pull config fans (for front mounted rads only since those are less likely to be seen), you could go with Noctua iPPC, but those can also be quite expensive (also loud if you run them at max RPM). Silent Wings fans from be quiet are also good, but I only recommend the non high speed, non PWM version. NZXT's Aer P fans are also quite good and much cheaper.
If you're not overclocking, the X72 is overkill. It is an excellent cooler, much better than most other 360mm AIOs on the market (based on my personal experience with cooling the 9900k @ 5.1GHz). In any case, it will be pretty quiet.
Or actually, if you are still using the S340 Elite, it won't fit. You'll have to opt for the X62 or X52, both of which are perfectly fine and comparable to the X72 by 3-5C.
My associate code to get 5-10% off products in the EVGA Store:
I've been told that it won't stack with B stock products (you can still try I guess), but in case you pick anything else up in the store, you can get a nice discount. Anyway, just copy and paste this code at checkout (in the associate code box).
Ah, well the 2700X can get hot too if you are overclocking. I guess I meant just Intel as far as "anything less" (meant anything less than 8 core 16 thread). As for fans on both sides of the rad, that's also known as having a push/pull setup (fans on one side pushing air through the rad, fans on other side pulling air through the rad; you can also just go for pull or push by having fans on only one side - there are slight differences to each configuration). For the push/pull, you just get slightly better temps than having fans on one side. And by slight, I'm talking maybe a 10% difference, or maybe 5-7C. The stronger the fans, the more noticeable the difference, but in the case of the stock ML120 fans that come with the H150i Pro (they have a max RPM of just 1600, very quiet but low static pressure), they barely make any difference. In my case, I didn't have to purchase any extra fans since the case came with 3 fans in front and the H150i Pro comes with 3 fans, but in general, I would never recommend a push/pull setup for a 360mm AIO as it's unnecessary and not worth the extra money (if you need to purchase extra fans). Hope that helps.
Glad it's working out for you! Thanks for the update!
Sorry, the first picture with the 360mm rad (H150i Pro) is just to show one of the many revisions my system underwent. I found the H150i Pro to be underwhelming due to the fans included with the unit. The H100i RGB Platinum comes with much better fans and way better RGB on the pump, so I use it in the current build (it's in all of the other pictures). These AIOs are worth using if you plan on overclocking the 9900k. Anything less and you can get away with a HSF or air tower cooler.
The 570x does support a 360 rad in the front of the case. It will fit.
So in general, larger fans produce less static pressure (this is especially true for 200mm fans), but some 140mm fans are still decent radiator fans (Noctua 140mm iPPC are excellent examples). Looking at benchmarks again (Gamers Nexus), the X62 and X52 are within 3 degrees of each other with the X62 coming out on top. It's likely because with the larger surface area, the fans don't have to work as hard, so even though the Aer P 140mm fans have slightly less static pressure than the 120mm fans at max RPM, the 280mm radiator is the difference.
So all that said, the EVGA CLC 280 and the NZXT X62 stand out as good 280mm AIOs (comparable to 360mm units). I just don't recommend the Corsair H115i Pro as the 140mm fans that are included are terrible. I tried this AIO myself and promptly returned it as even with a push/pull setup (4 fans, with the other fans being Noctua 140mm Chromax fans), it performed worse than the H100i RGB Platinum that I'm currently using (a 240mm AIO with only 2 fans). I would go with the X62, X52, or CLC 280, whichever you can find at the best price. If noise is an issue, it looks like the X62 would be the best option. If the H100i RGB Platinum is still on sale and you don't mind all of the RGB wires, I would also recommend that as I'm currently using it and it's definitely adequate.
Well, I definitely recommend the two latest Assassin's Creed games (Origins and Odyssey). I wasn't a huge fan of the series, but these two recent games are definitely worth it. They feel a lot like adventure/RPGs. They are also on sale on the Ubisoft store for 50-60% off. Those would be my strongest recommendations for now. If you like shooters, I enjoyed Battlefield 5, but make sure you get it on sale.
I've heard that the Noctua air coolers can cool the 9900k at stock, but not at higher overclocks (maybe it can handle 5.0GHz depending on silicon lottery and how many volts you need to run). As for the Kraken, if you plan to overclock, I'd definitely go with the X72. I know you said X62 or X52. The X52 would be fine but probably run a little louder due to having only two fans instead of three. The only reason I don't like the X62 is because 140mm fans are much better for air flow than static pressure. Comparing the fan stats on NZXT's own page, the 140mm fans run louder at full speed and produce less static pressure than the 120mm Aer P fans. Sure, there is much greater air flow from the 140mm fans, but when you stick them on a radiator, your only concern is static pressure.
As for longevity, maintenance, and leaks, NZXT's coolers come with a six year warranty, and I've been through their customer service and it's very good. Also, AIOs do not require maintenance. Maybe a bit of dusting out every two months or so (dust out the radiator fins as even through dust filters they will gather some amount of dust), but hopefully that shouldn't be too much of a hassle. If you ever get air trapped in your pump (will be heard as a constant clicking sound that may come and go in waves), tilting your case back and forth (or removing the AIO and tilting it back and forth a few times, or even giving the pump head a good shake or two) and then running the pump at 100% for six hours should work the air out (got this direct from NZXT which worked).
Oh, something else that I wanted to add: I have an older system from five years ago that has a 120mm AIO for the CPU cooler. It still works perfectly fine today. I had to replace the fans (cost me $5 for some cheap ones), but it still runs beautifully. I wouldn't worry about leaks as these products are solid at this point, and again, NZXT has a six year warranty which is pretty crazy (Corsair has five years and Cooler Master only two years).
Thanks so much! Still in awe of your build. I think I need to shift the bulk of the fan cables to go inside the cable bar. Was pressed for time but maybe fix it this weekend. What do you think of Corsair's Hydro X series? Think you'll ever go custom loop? I'm still not 100% sure, and I'd definitely have to wait until next year anyway.
I've tested quite a few Corsair AIOs and the NZXT Kraken X72 on my overclocked i9-9900k (5.1GHz). I will second the opinion regarding the X72 as it is an excellent cooler. I only had two problems: 1. the pump head is too large for my motherboard and filling all 4 DIMM slots; 2. I don't like the NZXT monitoring software CAM which you should use if have the X72 (or any NZXT AIO). The second problem is purely subjective as I'm sure someone out there likes CAM. Also, apparently it's going to get a pretty nice overhaul soon (at least from what I saw from coverage of Computex).
Most of the AIOs on the market are only distinguishable through the fans that come with them (which directly affect cooling performance) and the software used to control them (pump/fan speeds, RGB effects if any). The size of the radiator is really only important for noise as you can run the fans at a lower RPM to achieve the same amount of cooling as a smaller radiator running the single fan at max speed. The only really important thing to note is that you don't want the liquid temp of your AIO to exceed 60C due to chance of liquid permeation (which will shorten the life of your unit). This is why you really should have a monitoring software that you like for your AIO.
So I would personally recommend NZXT if you want a nice and quiet AIO that you don't have to replace the fans (if you don't want RGB). In fact, those are high quality fans that I would suggest using if you purchase this unit. If you want RGB, you can go with the Cooler Master ML360R RGB as it is comparable (due to the fan quality) to the NZXT X72 but cheaper. If you end up replacing the fans of any unit you purchase, then just buy the cheapest AIO you can find. Just be aware that some fans are not compatible with the PWM control of the AIO you purchase. For instance, Corsair AIO units will not play nicely with be quiet! Silent Wings fans (you can't control the speed of the fan in Corsair's iCUE software), so don't even try. Also, replacing fans does get pretty expensive if you have to buy 3 for a 360mm radiator. Even a 240mm would be fine as I currently use the H100i RGB Platinum for my 9900k (can keep 5.0GHz cooled, but a bit noisy). I'm not a fan on 280mm though as 140mm fans don't have as good static pressure as 120mm fans (at least when you directly compare noise levels).
Sorry, a lot of info I dumped on you, but hope you have enough to make an informed decision.
For me, it just took a lot of research and watching/reading multiple reviews. Motherboards are an often overlooked component by first time builders. It's why SI's like ibuypower or cyberpower cheap out on them while flashing the 'i9-9900k + 2080 Ti' combo for under $2500 (with a cheap PSU). Then when you get it and run MSI Afterburner with rivatuner statistics OSD and see your system running below stock speeds due to cheap VRMs on the motherboard getting way too hot (thermal throttling), well, yeah, that was me. Thankfully, I returned it, did my own research, and built my own system.
All I can tell you is that doing your own research will empower you to make your own informed decisions. As far as VRMs, it is the power delivery system for your CPU. More phases is generally better as they won't get as hot (therefore they will not throttle your CPU frequency down), but you need to check the amps as well. Generally you don't really have to know the exact setup if it's getting to be too much for you. Just watch or read some reviews regarding thermals on the motherboard. Youtube channels like Hardware Unboxed and Gamers Nexus are good sources for reliable testing.
Other things to look out for in a motherboard are features like how many ports or slots for things like USB, M.2 drives (if you want an M.2 SSD), DIMM slots, wifi. Remember, everything plugs into the motherboard, so if you end up getting a bad one, or one that doesn't have enough expansion slots, that means taking everything out of the case and reinstalling everything. Even Windows doesn't like it when you swap out a motherboard (I replaced my board with the exact same one due to a defect and Windows was trying to hassle for me another key which I managed to get around).
Just take your time and try to do a bit of research before selecting your next board. It also never hurts to ask questions here. Of course you can always just ask someone to pick a board for you, but IMO it's always better to at least know the basics for yourself and know the reasoning why you picked a certain board for yourself.
Thanks. I mostly enjoy RPGs, though I do play the occasional shooter or adventure game. Recently finished Shadow of the Tomb Raider and Assassin's Creed Origins. Currently playing Assassin's Creed Odyssey and Metro Exodus. Still have Deus Ex Mankind Divided and Watch Dogs 2 next (picked up most of these games on sale, Metro free with my video card). Looking forward to Vampire Bloodlines 2 and Cyberpunk 2077. What games do you enjoy?
Thanks, yeah pictures don't really do it justice. Definitely had a lot of fun putting it together.
Looking forward to it very much. Also looking forward to seeing how they implement real time ray tracing. So far, they mentioned global illumination. Anyway, the first half of 2020 is looking to be good with Cyberpunk and Vampire Bloodlines 2.
Something to understand: surface area doesn't necessarily equate to better cooling, it simply allows you to use fans at a lower RPM to get the same amount of cooling as a smaller radiator. I have used both the H150i Pro (also the NZXT X72) and the H100i RGB Platinum (currently have the latter). I've also tried the H115i Pro (sorry for all of the returns Amazon). Anyway, the point is that I have a lot of experience with AIO coolers for my CPU (i9-9900k @ 5.1 GHz).
The main difference with all of these coolers is really just the fans that come with them. The H150i Pro comes with 3 quiet fans that don't really move a lot of air. They don't really have to because they will be mounted on a 360mm radiator, but let me tell you, they have trouble cooling my CPU even when mounted as intake on the front of the case (I had to drop the OC to 5.0GHz even with a push/pull fan combo with 3 LL120 as push and the 3 stock ML120 as pull - those are 6 fans on the 360mm radiator!).
The one that I am currently using is the H100i RGB Platinum and it can keep my CPU cooled even at 5.0GHz with just the two fans that come with it. The problem is that they get pretty loud as the fans can spin up to 2400 RPM. But we are talking about 2 fans versus 6! In any case, the trade off is a louder hum versus a bit more silent hum with a lot of wooshing (because while those 6 fans are quiet, combined they are pushing a lot of air). Also, the H100i RGB Platinum is cheaper than the H150i plus 3 more fans.
The worst of the coolers I would have to say is the H115i Pro as the 140mm fans that come with it are too weak. Yes, they are silent, but they simply don't push enough air through the fans to cool it well. You can view all of the fan statistics on Corsair's website, and while fan manufacturer fan specs wildly differ between each other (due to different testing methods), if you are comparing only Corsair products with each other, you will get a good idea of which fans are better (you are looking for static pressure for radiator fans). The noise levels are also directly comparable.
I will be going with a full custom loop in the future (with the Hydro X series), but at least for now, I prefer the H100i RGB Platinum. Though I will say that the NZXT X72 was the best in terms of cooling and noise. The Aer P fans only need to run at around 50-60% and they cool the system very well. The problem is that the monitoring software CAM is the devil and I prefer iCUE.
Sorry for the huge post, but I wanted to share the experience I had with all of Corsair's coolers.
Oh, something I forgot to mention: the white version of the 240mm AIO is the 100i RGB Platinum SE. That one comes with white LL120 fans instead of the ML120 RGB fans. These LL RGB fans are not the same as the standard black LL120. They can spin faster at up to 2200 RPM and therefore have a higher max static pressure rating. They are still not as good as the ML120 RGB fans at the same noise level, but they will definitely be adequate for cooling your system. Hope that helps.
If you get the H100i RGB Platinum (I own one), the RGB fans connect directly into the AIO unit itself. If you've already installed iCUE, you'll be ready to sync everything right out of the box. I have the Corsair 500D RGB SE case which comes with a Commander Pro unit, so I can tell you from experience that you don't really need it unless you buy extra RGB fans.
I own the H100i RGB Platinum which have the same fans as your H100i, just with RGB LEDs on them. I also own the 500D RGB SE case which come with a full set of LL120 fans. Yes, the LL120 fans are quiet, but as mentioned by another user, they don't push as much air through the radiator fins due to the lower static pressure.
The main question is if you are overclocking. If so, I would recommend against the LL120 fans. If you're running your system at stock speed, then most likely it will be fine but they should be running at 100% under load (which is still pretty quiet). I'm currently running the 9900k at stock with the ML120 RGB fans running at 50% for the max speed and temps rarely go above 65C (liquid temp never exceeds 42C - you don't want this to reach 60C as permeation can occur). OC'ed, I have to run the fans at 65-70% which is too loud (game time at night while wife sleeps).
It automatically logs you back in. I was sitting at my desk when this happened. If you don't believe me, why keep asking? Something must be wrong with your hardware right?
Technically they actually take $30 off the price of the motherboard. Just went there a couple days ago to pick up my brother's Ryzen 7 1700X and MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC. $130 for the 1700X and $110 for the motherboard. Pretty sweet deal.
They were $60 on Amazon during a sale a couple of months ago. I really like these for the price.
Don't use the link software. It's old and unnecessary. Download iCUE. As long as you have the USB connector from your H150i Pro pump connected to a USB 2.0 header on your motherboard, it will be recognized and you can set the RGB as well as fan/pump speeds (can set custom curves, etc.).
The AIO is powered by a SATA power cable. The USB cable does affect the lighting controls as well as the fan/pump speeds in iCUE.
This happened to me recently and I had to replace my board to fix the issue. I dunno how you could have bent a pin on the socket without touching it, but bent pins pretty much kill your board. I tried many different ways to fix the pin, but in the end, it was just not possible and I bought a new board. I hope that for you it might be something simpler, but at least to me, it sounds like that is your problem.
Put the radiator on the front as intake, put two fans on top as exhaust, and have your PWM fan in the rear as exhaust. You'll probably end up with negative pressure but I'm betting you'll get better thermals. Setting all fans to intake seems like a pretty bad idea as the heat from the video card isn't venting quickly in a single direction. If you're worried about dust from negative pressure, your case looks like it has dust filters all around, and at least for me, cleaning the filter every week takes like 5 minutes. Not so much of a price to pay.
As others have already said, ask her again. Be direct, make eye contact, smile, and be confident. If it helps with confidence, maybe going in with a "nothing to lose" attitude will help alleviate any nervousness. I would advise against any wishy washy language like "If you're busy, it's not a big deal" or "If you're not interested, that's cool". Just be direct and get an answer. If she says no again with no follow up on her part, respect her choice and move on.
I lived with such heartache over a girl I knew for most of my childhood. I finally went to prom with her and then nothing after that (she was apparently in a long distance relationship but still went to prom with me). After 8 years, I met her again here in Los Angeles, asked her out, and went on a date. It was short and sweet, but I missed out on her hints (I later realized this much too late) and blew the relationship. It hurt, badly. But a couple years later, I moved on and met the woman who would become my wife and the mother of my two sons. I learned a lot from heartache. Without it, I wouldn't be a husband and a father. So just go, put yourself out there, and fail as many times as need be. You only need to succeed once. Good luck.
It doesn't matter what your origin status was. I was online when the update was happening and there were pop ups warning users that being online (away or not) would kick you and auto update. You could only avoid this by exiting all origin apps and logging back in with the offline mode. Don't worry about it, your hardware is perfectly fine. As you said, there was no error message, only exit to desktop, and I told you about the forced update. Don't worry ;)
Picked up that 850 G3 for my brother. Crazy deal.
No problem :) If you can't return the fans, it's always nice to have them on hand for a future build. Or if you purchase an AIO, you could always use those to replace the stock fans. Really, it's never bad to purchase noctuas :)
Origin had a critical update around that time where it was kicking you out if you were in game. Don't worry about it. You're fine.
Gigabyte Aorus comes with the extra sticks. That's all I know. Corsair sells their RGB only kits separately for $40, though I believe the Aorus memory costs more to account for those extra sticks.
If you have more exhaust fans than intake fans, you will create negative air pressure. This means that air from outside of the case will enter any way it can to balance out the air pressure. If you have more intake fans than exhaust, you create positive air pressure. This will force air out of every crack in your system to balance out the air pressure.
For the NZXT H500, the two fans that come with the case are set to exhaust. This means that you will have negative air pressure right out of the box unless you add fans to the case. This was tested and found to be of benefit to the video card as cool air from behind the PCIe slots will enter to help cool the card. Adding fans to the front of the H500 didn't really help much as the side vent holes are too small for extra fans to push more air through the case. The stock negative pressure of the case already draws as much air as those side vent holes allow.
The only reason to add fans to the front of the H500 are if they are with an AIO to help dissipate heat from the radiator. Adding fans just for the purpose of air flow were found to have negligible effects on thermals for the case. There are more than a few videos on tests done up on youtube that you can check out if you want.
The fans are supposed to speed up based on the liquid temp of your AIO (don't worry about CPU load or CPU temp as that's not how the AIO works). Under the H80i performance tab, you should see the liquid temp on the very right side of the pump head picture in iCUE. For the quiet setting, the fan should never go above 50% RPM.
Have you tried manually raising the fan RPM in iCUE just to check if the PWM control works properly? You can just click the + sign under the performance tab to add another setting. Just make a fixed RPM setting and try 25, 50, 75, and 100%. Make sure you select the fan when you click on the custom setting that you add. Let us know if that works, then maybe we can try to get to the bottom of this.
The cooler fans are connected directly to the AIO unit itself. You want to do this because this will allow the unit to control the fans automatically based on the liquid temp, or allow you to control the fans through iCUE. If you don't plug them into the AIO and just directly into the motherboard, you'll lose those nice features.
I have that case as well. First, there are a ton of wires, so you need to make sure everything is connected properly. Your fans should be connected to the Commander Pro directly for the PWM control. For the RGB, there is also an RGB fan hub that comes with the case. Your fan RGB cable should go into the RGB fan hub, and the hub itself should be connected to the Commander Pro LED port (it has two of these). Now, all of these connections should be right out of the box (the pre-installed fans should be all connected, that's how mine came), so hopefully you're good there.
The only thing you need to do is connect the Commander Pro to a USB 2.0 header on your motherboard, and connect the SATA power for the Commander Pro and the SATA power for the RGB fan hub to your PSU. After that, download iCUE and everything should automatically appear. Under the Commander Pro in iCUE, you have the Performance tab to set fan speeds and Lighting Channel to set the fan RGB. You have to manually set the Lighting Channel to how many fans you have connected. They will only show up sequentially, so if you select the option for 3 fans, the fans must be plugged into 1, 2, and 3 on the hub.
Hope that helps.
Yeah, this sounds reasonable. Make sure it is screwed in tight if it's a constant vibrating noise, especially if it happens only when it spins up faster.
From what I can tell, the fans will hook up to your motherboard or some other fan hub if you purchase one separately. That's how you control the fan speed (BIOS or fan hub software). For the RGB, it comes with an RGB hub that can either be controlled by you physically (has buttons you push to change the lighting) or through software such as ASUS Aura Sync or MSI Mystic Light Sync or a couple of others (Amazon has a picture with all of the compatible software logos). All you need to control with that software is to plug the hub into your motherboard provided it has a 12v RGB 4 pin port.
I love this case. Just got mine last week and spent around 90 minutes on cable management, and it's also against the wall where nobody can see it :)
Just bought custom cables from CableMod, so waiting a couple weeks for them to arrive and redo everything again :) Wow, I'm a sucker. Not even kidding.
I would rethink 2080 SLI. More than a few users here have expressed regret with 2 2080's instead of getting a single 2080 Ti. If you have to wait 6 months for the money, I would just wait. Black Friday is less than 6 months away and you'll definitely score some deals which will make it even more worthwhile.
That sucks, I don't know why it wouldn't work. I guess it only works on new products? Sorry :(
Look for site/store reviews to see if it's a scam. As for the monitor, it says that it's refurbished. Still seems like a good price, but I couldn't bring myself to purchase a refurbished screen.