Depends what your real question is.
If its just sitting at your desk or you need to move the computer up and downstairs, no it doesn't much more strain on your motherboard than your low to mid range cooler.
Your motherboard isn't going to suddenly fall out or snap due to the weight of this cooler.
Now if you were to toss it in a car or truck, then yes, if you don't plan on filling your case up to prevent vibration and movement, definitely take the cooler out. Just imagine you're pulling on the cooler every time you make a turn or come to a sudden stop.
Yes, though using a sfx psu will leave a fairly a gap in the upper chamber.
where does it say that?
I just checked the website and they have updated it to show that it works with coffee lake just fine, but even if they didn't it should have worked with 115x line up which can be anything from sandy bridge to coffee lake.
Nope, its tricky if you already installed your motherboard in your case though.
Only tips I'd recommend is have all your important cables installed.
8pin eps, fans, etc
I didn't have any trouble like the ones you're experiencing.
I used it for VMs and played games awhile waiting for test results. Under stress test, cpu temps were amazing. Temps only reached up to 80c when it was a really hot day.
I would not recommend doing an extreme overclock, the VRM would get very very hot especially if you push its limit and stress the living snot out of it.
I can't find a definite answer but spec sheets are saying these VRM can run upwards to ~125c and with the 1600x on a bad day it can easily hit 100c.
The 8pin is about half way under the heatsink, so you would have to take off the heatsink. I would say you have about 0.5 inch of space.
Sorry had just woken up and was on my phone regarding the earlier response.
But I am assuming you're speaking about the Asus P8Z68? Those models did not come with a Heatsink for the VRM. If you notice it also had a slot for USB 3.0 but did not come with the actual connector.
A lot of youtube video has great methods of using it.
If you don't want to watch it, the gist of those videos are to use masking tape with the cpu inside of the tool kit when applying the liquid metal.
The tape prevents liquid metal from getting on the pcb. The same tape method can be apply on the ihs to keep the liquid metal in the desired areas.
Base on my watt meter is ranges between 370-400ish depending on the type of load. The highest I seen it go to was in the 450.
I wouldn't know how to answer you as it will depend on what you're doing to justify the gpu upgrade.
As for cpu upgrade...again I wouldn't know as it depends on your applications. The 8700k is great, but I wouldn't fork over $420 for it + you have to factor in the cost of a new motherboard.
You’re free to pm me regarding why that was a factor
Price tends to shift and this was from a saved list. I was also budgeting things as I gathered parts. It’s mostly for me to know how much I spent.
I left the bequiet stickers on to find out if the fans are spinning. Even at full speed, its still one of the quietest components.
I set them to the same speed
First reason was the original build had a gtx 1070 in it.
Second reason during the upgrade process, coffee lake news was popping up like crazy and I was hoping prices will drop more so before Christmas time.
Third reason, I'm trying to justify getting it as I will not make use of the extra cores, as the work I do no longer allows me to do it from home outside of office work like Microsoft Office Suite and I hardly play games that will utilize all of the cores. Most of the games I play seems to utilize 4 cores and have diminishing returns with any more. So to me the 2 extra cores the Ryzen 1600x had over my i7 4770k gave me just enough to multitask when there is a game running.
But I been itching to grab the ryzen 7 1700 and do a modest overclock on it.
Humancentric vesa adapter that is for this model roughly 30usd on amazon right now
You will most likely have to take it off and reinstall the cooler again.
I recommend doing a light overclock. I've contacted gigabyte and they did a a test with the r7 1700 w/ the stock cooler that comes with it and after 6hours of prime95 they were sitting close to 80c.
They haven't gotten back to me when I requested they use a 95w tdp cpu, So I can assume it didn't pass their test or they just neglected to contacted me back.
Yes, recommend you install it before putting it in the case and wires like fan connectors or in my case the 8pin cpu connector.
Use Am3 instructions to install.
It is good for the cost and how its designed.
I positioned mine this way because it blocked my ram slots and I wanted to cool the VRM. Though I would have paid extra if it was painted a different color like the dark rock TF
I did some overclocking,
Got 3.7Ghz with 1.18v with 2933Mhz ram fairly easily.
Though base on hwinfo when left at stock, it usually sits at 3.7Ghz and peak 4.1Ghz on 1 core.
I was going to mount a fan on the outside like the other two poster suggested, problem was I didn't have the right screws/nuts to hold it in place. Got a bit creative and used some old radiator screws that came with the h80i I had years back and some left over motherboard stand offs.
They're short enough to not touch anything so I should be fine.
Though I could have just installed a 120mm without a fan grill on the outside and install the grill on the fan later on.
Only thing that may turn your average consumer away is the lack of built in wifi. So they have to waste a usb slot or be wired.
Other then that so far it gets the job done.
No, it's how poorly the bios is done. The rest of it is nitpicking on location of certain things they placed and how they cheaped out on somethings and overspent on others. Otherwise it gets the job done.
Tried it with the software biostar has and tried mixing it in bios. Best I got was the pinkish color
Bekant Desk from Ikea, this particular model is the
Table top: 63in(160cm) L x 31.5in(80cm) W
Height varies due to adjustable legs.
Comes with a net underneath to catch cables, but I prefer to use other means when ever I get a chance to.
I had a 144hz 1080p monitor up until a few months ago. It wasn't exactly mind blowing for what I was using it for. Of course there were perks when I did use it to game but for coding I'm usually staring at a bunch of text so sadly I valued the extra room and color production of this monitor more so than the refresh rate. But next year when I get a newer gpu, I will invest in a better monitor then.
These are just extension, the cables that came with the psu is tuck away.
comes with 1 20+4 motherboard connector, 1 4+4 cpu connector, and 2 pcie connectors.
Thanks! I'll look into it been jumping back and forth between Be Quiet's, Cryorig, and a few of the popular LED fans.
I looked into it, but prefer to have the least amount of fans in this case. Trying to keep it as quiet as possible. Though I won't lie the kraken x52/62 looks amazing and I was about to buy it if it didn't take them forever to ship the brackets
I think there is only 1 right now, and even then its out of stock 90% of the time. I was lucky to grab my during the first batch. Just happened to be browsing when they put it up on newegg.
The most intensive game I play now is Gta5, but I am waiting until next year for an upgrade since this gtx 1060 was technically mine before I gave it to a family member. Got the gtx 970 stryx for the no fan mode + it was $100 for a brand new one.
A lot smaller than the matx cases I'm used to, but this case seem like it was design with water cooling in mind so its a bit taller than some of itx cases. There are a ton of space left over for large radiators.
Seems normal to me after a stability test and software installations.
I seen it drop as low as 25c in 68F degrees (20c) room temp.
But, I'm working on something :(, it'll be cleared out this weekend after I get somethings to organize the cables underneath as well.
I know it can fit fairly large coolers, I just prefer to not have a giant block. Would prefer Top flow coolers or AIO unless the air coolers are extremely quiet and fit a black/white theme
I will doing a mild overclock
hoping to get 3.7-3.9 in the phantek evolv mini itx with Corsair vengeance LED in the biostar am4 mini itx motherboard.
Planning on sticking with the pentium, I wanted to overclock it as well. For experimental purposes too...
Though in debate whether or not I want to dump the ssd or the 1tb hdd. There won't be much on this computer, maybe a few steam games.
Been hearing this chip can get to pass 4.0Ghz and matching the i5/i7 in single threaded performance
was hoping it wasn't this...
Guess its time to back up everything and perhaps invest in a SSD
Thanks for the help.
Just ran one, not too long ago
there is a hum but its not the same noise.
The noise I experience sounds like a jet taking off.
would you know if heat will be an issue?
I am assuming you were going to comment about the i7? I got it for 200usd, I didn't want to let that chance go to waste so I jumped on it.
hmm, thanks for the suggestion will probably not get black, heard it was very loud.
thanks so much for your inputs
Usually half the time it would be in use for either school work or movie/gaming
~variety of games
other times when I am not present it will be
Finishing up a download/update/running system check or it will be plainly idling
I guess a better question is
if you were to overclock it and leave it on all the time, would going from 4.3 @ 1.18v have any more risk than email@example.com?
the difference between the temps is ~3c when load is present
I went ahead and purchased the Asus VS239H-P 23 and already started running into sleep mode problems and ontop of that it looks horrible compared to my other 23inch monitor. Did I just purchase a really bad monitor?
Should I just return it and pick up another monitor?
oops, thought I uploaded all of it