As per blasted, you need to plug the Monitor cables into the dedicated Graphics Card now it is on-board.
The Mobo integrated graphics are disabled in the presence of a dGPU.
Unnecessary after-market CPU Cooler. The stock one is fine.
The build by Porkyville is better.
Thanks for the update. I would have never thought about a CD in the drive being an issue.
How are you trying to do the install?
You are mashing F8 (or whatever key gets you into the Boot Menu) and selecting the USB as the boot media right?
How did you create the USB.? Did you use the Windows Media Creation Tool or Rufus and make the USB bootable?
Start from the beginning and do it properly:
Seems quite reasonable to me - for gaming.
I would try for the 6GB GTX 1060 if possible.
You can manage with 8GB RAM for gaming.
IMHO hybrid drives don't work well with Windows 10 because of the frequent O/S updates.
You have a mATX Motherboard in an ATX Case. Can work, but can also look odd.
Do you need a Wireless Network Adaptor? If you do, the Gigabyte version is better.
Single-fan AIO CPU Coolers are not great value for money.
The PSU is meh for that build: http://www.overclock.net/t/1500086/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-400-600-and-500b-600b
There is no Case.
What is the build for?
Yes, I noticed after I posted, hence the deletion, but thanks :-)
What is your target Monitor Resolution and Refresh Rate please?
How did you create the USB?
Did you make is bootable?
Have you tried one of the rear USB ports?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Which specific model of that Case? - there are several.
Spam whichever is used to enter the Boot order as soon as you power on. Typically Escape, F2, F8 or Delete.
It only seems to support RAM up to 2400 M/T.
Glad you sorted it and glad something wasn't defective :-D
Follow these guides to troubleshoot:
I think the Motherboard is expensive, but this certainly is a nice build.
Real Time Clock malfunction . 5 short beep
Try resetting the CMOS or replacing the CMOS battery.
Please get a different PSU as well: http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g-aka-g1
An EVGA G2 would be great.
Follow these Guides and report back:
Check you've properly inserted the RAM into the DIMM slots. The need to 'click' in.
Check there is no dust or boogers in the DIMM slots.
Next try 1 DIMM slot at a time, booting into BIOS to make sure it's recognised.
You don't need an after-market CPU Cooler with a non over-clocking build. You can use the stock owe.
You don't need a Z-170 chipset Motherboard either, you could use a B150 or H170 chipset.
If it's a gaming build, 8GB RAM would suffice.
There is no boot SSD.
Poor PSU for the build: http://www.overclock.net/t/1500086/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-400-600-and-500b-600b
The power draw and wattage of the PSU is not in question.
The quality of the PSU is.
For another $10: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/3hkwrH/corsair-power-supply-cp9020102na
For another $5: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/fZyFf7/seasonic-power-supply-s12ii520bronze
I would not use that PSU with this build budget:
I would also not advocate over-clocking an mITX build. I'd either go for an i5-6500 or an i7-6700.
Have you verified that the Monitor actually works with another build?
Your original PSU was over-priced for it's quality: http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g-aka-g1
Refer to your Motherboard Manual for RAM placement. To run in dual channel, it's usually either DIMM slots 1 and 3 or 2 and 4. So if you have used DIMM slots 3 and 4, it won't be running optimally.
If you haven't over-clocked the CPU, it is going to perform worse than in benchmarks where is has been over-clocked.
If Windows is the O/S and you can boot into the O/S, CPU-Z will tell you the Mobo Model no:
I'd start from the beginning:
you can't judge a PSU solely by brand
you can't judge a PSU solely by brand
It might be that you haven't made the USB bootable. One can't just copy/paste the files, the media has to be bootable.
Use the Windows Media Creation Tool or rufus.
I'd start from the beginning to try and isolate the problem:
If the PSU was fried, there wouldn't be any power to the DRAM light.
However, if you'd like to check the PSU:
You could try bread-boarding it with everything non-essential disconnected.
Have you checked the DIMM slots for dust, crap and bogies?
Might be helpful: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/wiki/windows_10-update/bsod-finding-and-fixing-them/1939df35-283f-4830-a4dd-e95ee5d8669d
iirc TR2 isn't a particularly good PSU: http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page680.htm
What is the exact model number?
Plainly if your PSU doesn't have the requisite PCI-E connectors, you would have to buy something like this:
using different molex chain for each molex connector.
Better still, get a decent PSU.
All PSUs are not the same.
Windows 10 >
Right click [the file] >
Open With >
Choose another app >
Untick 'Always use this app to open .php files'
CPU is supported: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H81M-P33.html#support-cpu
Latest BIOS 1.9: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H81M-P33.html#down-bios
Try sfc /scannow http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2895-sfc-command-run-windows-10-a.html
Uninstall any existing GPU drivers with DDU: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
Install the latest AMD driver: http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/desktop?os=Windows+10+-+64
or get a Case with Front Panel 3.1 USB header.
Have you over-clocked the CPU, GPU or RAM?
Recommend not buying that SSD again: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7763/an-update-to-kingston-ssdnow-v300-a-switch-to-slower-micron-nand
Arctic Silver 5 has a cure time of up to 200 hours.
Try running sfc /scannow: http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2895-sfc-command-run-windows-10-a.html
Try running Memtest86: http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/14201-memtest86-test-ram.html
The PSU isn't actually available for that price: http://cplonline.com.au/antec-high-current-gamer-520w-power-supply-hcg-520.html
The RAM will be down-clocked to 2133M/T unless you get a Z170 chipset board. Recommend 1 x 8GB RAM stick in case you need to upgrade to 16GB (Mobo has 2 DIMM slots).
An i5-6500 and a GTX 1070 is a good combination.
Used = no, new = yes.
GTX 1060 6GB > GTX 970
It is not worth buying a GTX 970 unless it is a deal you can't miss. It is ageing architecture.
Recommended for TDP up to: 150 Watts
AMD FX 9370 Vishera, 8 Core, AM3+, Clock 4.4GHz, Turbo 4.7GHz, 8MB L3 Cache, 220W, CPU, OEM
The CPU Cooler is in adequate for the CPU TDP. I would surmise the CPU is overheating and the build is shutting down to prevent CPU damage.
I think it is also likely your Motherboard won't be able to handle the heat from the CPU.
I can't see why not.