Thanks it takes time and looking for value from used, sales and refurbs. Also this was from October through November before GPUs and memory kept going.
Love it just did one for a 2500K recently all for less than $250. SOld it for my cost to my son's friend so he can play CSGo with him.
Does this count? I just wanted to list the exact model. You guys have listed old stuff that is not available anymore in the retail channel all the time.
They are good till 100 MHz before they start throttling. I am using a 2200 RPM Blade Master fan from a Hyper 212+.
Found it but it wasn't through search. I used 2500k but nothing. However, finding completed builds with the motherboard I was using found it for me. I guess through the part#.
So Cooler Master came out with addressable RGB cooler that uses the 3 pin style.
I have a stricx z270i. I was wondering where your gpu pcie power cable routed. Between the back of the motherboard or around the front through the middle channel to the PSU. I have mine routed straight down across the radiator then back up to the PSU.
Did you sandwich your PCIe cable between MB and GPU? I tried to go around the middle channel but it wasn't long enough.
All I do is oldies! +1 from me. Hell my newest is going to use a used Skylake.
FYI, GPU orientation towards the window starves the GPU fans for air. Phanteks recommends pointing it inside. For more air get a 140mm PWM fan that you can connect to your GPU. The GPU has PWM case fan connectors that you can use to allow the GPU to get more air when it needs it (I think Asus calls it FanConnect). I have been using GPU PWM fan splitters to do the same thing for my old builds but Asus has actually included the same functionality which is great!
So cablemods has addressable 3 pin LED strips. They might include an adapter for 4 pin but maybe you can contact them to see if they have adapters for your 4 pin stuff to 3 pin.
Love your photography. I wish I had your skills and lighting.
I have fixed 5 out 8 bent pin boards I have bought. So if the pics don't look too bad they are sometimes worth it. Gigabyte even replaced one under warranty. I really like their customer service. My son's board worked except for the B channel DIMM slots and they took about 4 weeks to fix it. So you might want to try with Asrock and see what they say.
I see the new connector is for addressable rgbs. Here is an example:
It's the next stage of RGBness probably to compete with Corsair lightning node pro.
Sorry bud, I totally missed that after going through all the pictures.
I love old systems being used in the present. Might want to fold back and tie up the exhaust fan cable between the fan and the rear IO shield then have it exit near the bottom of the fan close to the motherboard fan header. It will make it look a lot cleaner. You also try taking the HD audio cable from side grommets under the motherboard and poke out right below the audio header. Otherwise a nice build.
Just retired my son's 860 for a still old Haswell 4790.
Agreed. That's air blow not flow. You need to have as much air come in as the coolers can flow. Stealing air before it gets to the cooler is counter productive. Otherwise the fans will starve for air. Remove rear top fan and make front top fan intake as it is in front of the cooler. This is especially important since the video card also needs a lot of air. Ideally high cfm intake fans would need to be used but the case is another restrictor as I don't think the openings are large enough to flow what the fans can bring in.
Here is my air cooling Bible: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data
Need another intake fan to help a little.
Try this for MB controlled RGB
MB ---> CM 3-Way Splitter(from cooler kit) ---> Pump
---> Rad Fan
---> Phanteks 4 pin adapter (from combo kit) ---> Case LED
---> Light strips
Do not connect CM rgb controller or case controller. MB supports 2A at 12v and the strips eats 0.42v each. So you should be ok. Can't imagine the AIO taking more than a strip.
Use HWINFO to record in the background and save the results. For more information about air in general:
Ideally the config should be GPU with a blower, and a 120MM AIO at the bottom as intake, intake fan on front and exhaust on top. Intake air temperature will be warmer than room temp but that would probably the best compromise.
I would test having the upper fan as exhaust and measure your temps for both GPU and CPU checking for throttling while running a typical game. Then flip it and test again. Always checking for throttling of either component. Then decide which way works better for you. I will be doing the same thing soon. Just waiting for my RAM to come in.
Heat rises when there is no force through natural convection. However, heat or air will go wherever you blow it when you use fans that spin at high speed.
All fans as intakes would hopefully all the hot air out but you would have to test what gives you the best results. Non blower GPU fans muck thongs up by blowing exhaust in many directions.
I just bought the case and cooler combo and am waiting on my memory and motherboard to come up to start the build. I would like to make the tubes go out toward the top of the case so that I can guide each tube separately along the sides. Trying to get a symmetrical look.
Remove the lower drive cage so that bottom fan is unimpeded, which will allow more air to get to GPU.
Is this some kind of modern art thing or something? Can't believe you have RGB controller and fan controller wires on LOCK DOWN! This is just gorgeous.
He stated that he updated his old build. Why would he replace it with something that wasn't available a year ago?
i5s are 4 threads this Xeon is equivalent to i7-4770 without the iGPU which also means lower TDP. i7-4770s sell for a similar price as what he listed on his Xeon.
So for not changing platforms (motherboard and memory) he has saved quite a bit of money.
Nice. Needs an updated PIC then of all that fresh air goodness. Direct airflow worked wonders for my rig in terms of sound as the fans never had to work at high speeds anymore.
That chipset is triple channel. Later HEDT procs are quad channel. While mainstream cpus are all dual channel.
They are the OG Core-i7 Nehalems and still run great. OC it and the 1060 should have no issues.
Yes, especially when you have no cables but the minimum. The least amount of hardware and wires in a PC I ever built.
Only if you go down to the 1.54 BIOS and have a dedicated GPU as the integrated GPU gets disabled along with C-States. So that's a no go...
Thanks. I can't wait till she starts using it too. Doing a 72 hour burn in running OCCT PSU test right now. The parts compilation took over 2 months. As deals came up I pounced on them. Only wish I got the memory earlier as 3Ghz memory was going for that price just back in October.
That's my spare for putting things together, it's over 10 years old and it is brighter than my newer monitors. My DisplayPort to DVI adapter wiring went bad and I had to finish the build on my son's TV.
Mind you that is a small tower cooler 92mm fans. I can't believe how quiet it is even at full 2000 RPM. Especially compared to the CM's Blade Masters on the Hyper 212s.
Microcenter in Wayne, PA (St. Davids). The sale is long over though I think it is back to $109.99. Newegg had it for $99.99 at one point. You have to jump on these as they come. The crazy part was that the 6600K was $189.99 plus 6% tax. Which was the lowest price ever. The 6500 was $169.99. If it wasn't for the low clock speeds even at Turbo I might have suggested going with that.
Grabbed what was on sale so price won over minimalism. Just like it did with the RAM. Didn't realize the RAM was LED lit at the time.
Yeah and it has the cleanest basement. I wound up wrapping the atx and epu power cables to the side to keep the front open to allow the air to get through unimpeded from the front.
Yes it is to sync GPU fans with case PWM fan. You cannot daisy chain the fans. I have only hooked up one PWM case fan to it so I do not know if you can continue to split it with more passive PWM splitters. I suspect that one would be the limit. One option to control more than one for sure is to get a PWM fan controller hub that is powered then you don't have to worry. You can post on the site to see if anyone has split it passed one fan. Otherwise, here is the guaranteed ways:
If you want to control multiple PWM fans than this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAABJ4SF8917&cm_re=silverstone_fan_hub-_-11-999-309-_-Product
If you want to control multiple 3 pin voltage regulated fans via PWM control than this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4RE5032993&cm_re=phanteks_pwm_hub-_-11-984-004-_-Product
Same thing if you were trying to control multiple CPU fans hooked up to PWM.
Oh and these are crucial in my opinon to maintaining an absolute quiet build. I had to drill holes in my GPU shrouds but they are worth it. I bought three at a time since they come from China/HK. Probably a discount code out there somewhere on the web. Lot's of other wiring needs too.
That's great to hear. Bottom line is to experiment. Air does funny things when forced and with so many variables in play there is no one size fits all. Then there typically is a compromise between CPU and GPU cooling that has to be balanced. When using stress testing utilities I got one result but playing the different games and unraring and reencoding I got different results. So I had to decide on what was more of a priority based on what I did most of the time. HWINFO is my best friend. It gives me temps and fan speeds while doing anything and then I can tell how everything is working. For me this is what got me back into the hobby. I would love to tinker with cars but since that is too expensive I tinker with airflow in computers. LOL.
Great. Glad to hear it. Anytime I see builds with high end air coolers inside of high flow cases I have to take a look.
I can see just a bottom mounted fan pushing hot GPU air to the CPU cooler. If you had another fan opposite that might have taken care of that. That would have the front fans forcing front to back air flow for a clean exit without risk of exhaust air contamination.
The art and science of building a PC in my opinion is not picking out a set of components and slapping it together but selecting components that work in concert with each other to balance and complement one another. Or as in your case taking what you have and maximizing it by trying moving what you can and testing to see if it was better or worse. Heck at some point you might have to decide if you want the GPU cooler or CPU cooler as different fan configs can help one but hurt the other.
If you are really interested in learning more go here:
And my journey documenting what I did to get a quieter system that ran cooler:
As intake or exhaust? Usually the feet on case are not high enough to draw in the air I use 2x4s cut to size to raise up my PC. The CFMs for cold air need to be about what the coolers are spinning. So find out how much CFM the CPU and GPU coolers cool and try to make sure you have around that much intake. As you noted testing is the only way to figure out what works best for your system.
I second the cage removal. The Noctua's need a lot of air so you might want to install a fan in the top front position as intake in front of the cooler as well preferably a PWM one so that you can speed control it as needed. Same thing on the bottom as intake next to PSU to help get more air the the GPU. My Arc Midi R2 case is the same internal layout so getting rid of the drive cages and adding PWM controlled intake fans dropped temps and also made it so much quieter as the CPU and GPU cooler fans was able to run a lot slower.
At 1080 the GPU is working 95% or higher in GOW4 with medium settings getting 61 FPS.
Well I think you answered your own question then.