You want the best performing one? Then it's a no brainer. The 780 Classified by EVGA. You get a wider card which means more heatsink space, unlocked voltage and better vrms for power delivery, EVGA support (which is great), and dual bios so that you can switch between an overclocked profile and a stock profile if you want.CARD
I'd go with the fatality. Reality is both will hit the overclocks you want. And it is cheaper.
Here's the thing. A full custom loop it's impossible to fit in under 300 bucks. Even an expandable loop you can't fit into a 300 dollar budget. Case in point: an H220 costs around $150, 780TI blocks start at about 110 bucks, and then you'd need an additional 4 fittings which is going to cost at least 16-20 bucks (if you go the route of barbs) or significantly more for compression fittings, and another 10 bucks for the extra tubing you'll need as well as maybe 5 bucks for distilled water and a couple more for some antimicrobial. That puts you at around 500 bucks.
The solution instead is to go with something like one corsair h105 or kraken x60 (normally 120 ish), 2 corsair h75s (68 each), and 2 kraken g10s (30 bucks when in stock), which puts you at 316. The two h75s you'd use on the kraken g10s for the gpus, and the h105/x60 you'd use on the cpu.
Now here's the rub: For this setup to work, you need to have a motherboard whose pci slot set up has 3 slots in between the two cards (not counting the cooler slot for the top card, or 2 slots if you do include it) otherwise you can't fit two kraken g10s in.
Pretty sure that's what I said in my first post :P
I understand, I'm just looking more from a see what you can upgrade within the same socket point of view so you save yourself having to get a new motherboard is all.
AP15s when they were still available in the US dropped down to around USD 15 a fan.
Honestly at that price point, you should be looking around for a used 290. I know a lot of people have qualms with buying used hardware, but as someone who has both purchased and sold a LOT of used hardware, it's a great way to make your money go MUCH further.
Basically as a result of the mining craze as we all know the market for 290s and 290xs jumped through the roof and you couldn't get them anywhere and they were being sold and resold at absolutely crazy prices. People were buying the cards not even to use or mine with them, but rather to just resell to make a quick buck. Now, however, supply has caught up and prices have normalized. In addition to that, the mining craze has died down considerably with the problems over at Mt Gox and the increased difficulty of mining as well as dwindling remaining minable coins in the respected cryptocurrencies.
As a result, I've seen gigabyte windforce 290s go for as little as 345 SHIPPED. That is absolutely awesome for the money. You're essentially getting a card that matches (or sometimes outperforms) a 780 at the price of a 770. And you still get a warranty should anything go wrong. If you wanted to go this route (and I HIGHLY suggest you do) some great forums to check out are overclock.net (marketplace section), hardforums (for sale/trade), anandtech forums (for sale/trade), and reddit's hardwareswap sub. If you don't live in the US, the best way to find where you can buy these is just to google search for forums based in your country, so for instance I know in the UK there's overclockers.co.uk and several others that offer similar sections for selling and trading components.
Honestly, 4gb nvidia cards don't make much sense to me personally. You get extra memory yes, but you keep the same memory bit bus. That means that when you need to access that memory, you have to search through twice as much memory with the same speed as before. In this case it's a 256 bit bus, whereas a 280x has a 384 bit bus with 3gb of ram. As a result (theoretically) a 4gb nvidia card is slower than its' 2gb counterpart when the 2gb counterpart isn't a bottleneck to what you're testing.
Anyway taking a step back from that, at 1080p, 2gb of ram shouldn't be a problem for you. If you wanted to get the best bang for buck performance in that price range, though, you'd be better off getting a used 290. With the mining price bubble having burst now, a lot of cards are flooding the used market for cheap. I've seen gigabyte windforce 290s going for as little as 345 shipped.
If you go to ASUS website and go to your motherboard in the support section, there will be a download for ASUS Fan Xpert (I think it's Fan Xpert 2 now). You can use that to control your case fans.
A few suggestions for you:
If you go the kraken g10 route, an x60 isn't going to improve your performance more than an x40 will. You're going to run into voltage limits and such long before you hit thermal limits. Save some money there and stick with an x40.
If you don't go the kraken route, I'd step up to getting a 780 ti classified for the better pcb and power delivery along with unlocked voltages. SUPPOSEDLY it also works with the kraken from a few build logs I've seen, but I can't say 100% that it does (though I've been talking to some nzxt guys about it).
I'm personally not a fan of TN panels at all, regardless of 144hz, I prefer IPS panels. I personally would go the route of a QNIX monitor from off of ebay. I have two of them and love them. You get PLS (samsung's version of IPS), 1440p and 120hz overclockable and for under 400 bucks.
For the case fans, I know a lot of people like hyperboreas, I don't personally. I'd get the phanteks 140mm fan, the thermalright tr ty 147, or the cougar vortex 140mm over it.
Xeons aren't gaming oriented, and cannot be overclocked. Not worth it in any way. Just because you have 10k doesn't mean you should spend 10k :P. It makes more sense to put the money to where it'll work most for you and not spend where the benefits are marginal. With that in mind here's an idea of what I'd do (sorry I'm too lazy to pcpp list this):
Get a 4770k. The extra cores you get from x79 benefit you absolutely not at all in terms of gaming performance. What's more x79 will be replaced in less than half a year if the rumor mill is to be believed with x99 and a new socket (2011-3, which isn't backwards compatible). Core for core, the 4770k beats anything on the x79 lineup just beacuse it's a newer architecture (Haswell vs Ivy Bridge)
Motherboard: If you want to go balls out get a z87 motherboard with a plx chip like the G1 Sniper 5 (which I have and love), the Gigabyte OC Force, the asus maximus extreme, the evga z87 classified, msi z87 xpower, or the asrock z87 extreme9/ac. PLX in a nutshell works as a multiplexer, allowing for essentially double the amount of lanes (this gets really complicated so I'm not going to get into detail). Even then testing has shown it doesn't really improve performance even at 4 cards, but if that's a concern for you regardless then there you have it.
32 GB of RAM will benefit you in no way. Ever. You could get 8gb of ram and get the exact same gaming performance as 64gb.
Hard Drives: If you need 8TB of storage then power to ya good choice on the drives.
Graphics Cards: I have to step in here and say that the 295x2 is not worth it for anyone. The simple reality is that it's 2 290x (which cost about 1100 max) for 1500 bucks. They're also not able to overclock as well as the 290x and you need to mount the rads for them. Not to mention the 780 TI outperforms the 290x in every benchmark to date with the new drivers. If you really wanted to go the balls out dual gpu on a card route, the Titan Z is coming out in a few weeks, burn your cash there. Otherwise I'd get 4 780TI classifieds from EVGA. They have the best power delivery of any card on the nvidia side (and arguably the amd side), they have unlocked voltage (which no other nvidia gpu has), and they have more heatsink volume/mass to them than any other dual slot cooler out there. Even then I'd say stick to 3 cards, the 4th card adds so very little in terms of benefit, but if you've got the cash to burn, make it rain.
Case: Subjective, if you like it power to you.
Power Supply: No real arguments if you intend to go quad gpu.
It should be fine, if you can fit an aftermarket cooler in there to get higher overclocks it will help a lot for streaming, or you can offload streaming onto the GPU using shadowplay with nvidia. The only other thing worth mentioning is if you can squeeze it into your budget try to get a 780 with an aftermarket cooler for lower temperatures and more overclockability/quieter
Do you have a build list? Specifically I'd like to know which motherboard you're using. Most do support voltage fan control, but it would help to be certain. The other reason I want to know is these days a good number of motherboards have a program you can use to control the fans as well. For ASUS it's called fan xpert, for gigabyte it's part of the easytune suite etc.
Alright I haven't read the other comments, but here's my thoughts:
Ditch the 840 pro for an evo or an xlr8. The extra performance you get from a pro is not worth the cost in any way.
Ditch the NZXT Phantom for one of their newer phantom line cases like the 410 if you want midtower or the 520 (I think it is) or if you want larger the phantom 630.
Ditch the monitors for monitors that are IPS. You can easily find IPS panels at the price you're looking at.
RAM: Do you need 16gb for the video editing work you do? If not, stick with 8gb.
Overall it's a very well thought out build, kudos to your planning.
Your case fans will be fine.
You could if you felt that the fan speed it needs to stay under 80C is too loud for you. Or you coudl do it if you wanted to overclock further.
Yeah it does work with any NVIDIA cards. You just need to create an account on their site to download it (don't worry, it's free)
There is a great saying to go by when it comes to buying ram:
Ram is ram is ram.
It's all equivalent in the end. Higher CL means incrementally slower performance, but normally also means faster clock speeds on the RAM, which can make up for that and increase performance. The reality is, though, for most intensive purposes (gaming, and general usage) ram doesn't matter. If, on the other hand, you're using the integrated gpu on the cpu (so no graphics card, just running off the igpu) then RAM does make a big difference.
Yes that's what I'm talking about. I'm not very familiar with MSI afterburner as I haven't used it in a few years, but you should be able to easily google online how to set the overlay and choose what information to to display
Don't ever listen to manufacturer specs. Fan measuring procedures aren't standardized across the industry, so everyone does them in different ways without explaining how they've tested. Basically every time you read a fan spec, immediately assume they're lying (because more often than not they are). Instead go read up on fan reviews from websites and forums. Over on overclock.net there is a substantial fan roundup by both Tator Tot and one other user whose name escapes me (both are in the air cooling sub forum). There's also fan reviews from SPCR and Martin's Liquid Lab.
I believe that the fans Akasa makes that are any good are called the Apaches. Others you could look into include the cougar vortex series, if you can find them still the scythe gentle typhoon ap 15s, the scythe grand flex, and the thermalright tr ty 147 along with the phanteks.
There is no 3gb 770. Only 2gb and 4gb.
295x2 isn't worth it in any universe. It has more limiting overclocking than the normal 290x (which already in comparison to the 780TI has pretty abysmal overclocking headroom), and costs the same price as 2 and a half 290xs
The way to tell if it's throttling is to open up a program like msi afterburner or precisionx and set the overlay to show the GPU core clocks on your cards in the overlay. If you are throttling, you'll see that 80C your GPU clocks will start downclocking.
To get around this (at least in precisionX), just raise your temp target to 85C for instance.
Honestly read reviews. The most recent review I can think of for the 760 is the Striker one from Guru3d [HERE](http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_geforce_gtx_760_striker_platinum_review,1.html_
Future proofing is a gimmick. We have no idea what the future holds. As it is Microsoft has shown that future implementations of DirectX have the capacity to significantly reduce vram requirements, while AMD has shown plans in HSA to enable faster gpu memory offloading to RAM (i think that's what it was, or something of that ilk). Future proofing is not a good motto to go by.
3gb of vram hasn't been shown to improve much of anything yet. Case in point is the fact that the 3gb 780ti and 780 outperform the 290 and 290x at 4k, while having one less gb of vram
For about 40 bucks more you could get a 770. If you really can't make that stretch, I'd definitely take the 670. People worrying about how much it's been used are exaggerating. Fact is no one uses nvidia cards for mining so they can't have been stressed that badly. I've bought used 690s before that worked absolutely fine.
If you don't have the noctua already, don't buy it. Instead go for something like the phanteks 140mm cooler (I keep forgetting the serial number). Performs just as well if not better, and has color options to match your build. The only one it would work with however is probably the ud4h color wise
Some people consider 30fps the bare minimum for playable. I personally do not. You buy a PC over a console because you get higher frames in multiplayer games etc. 30fps average means it's the average, which means at least 40% of the time it's under that. Obviously this is a subjective discussion so I'm not going to go further but I'll say for me personally at the very least I'd consider playable is an average of 45fps.
Running video at 4k is whatever, not particularly hard to do. Also it isn't due to optimization on the 780TI, it's due to a higher core count. It's a fully unlocked gk110 core vs a cut down on the 780 and titan.
If you can find a buyer for the 3820 then go for it. I'd suggest you first actually put the CPU on sale and see if you can find someone to buy it. If you can, then I think that's a great idea, I hadn't done all the math myself before posting, should have done so first lol.
I would not upgrade platforms at all. The performance differences between them isn't huge. Do you do a lot of cpu intensive tasks where every second (literally) counts? If so then I'd say yes you should consider the upgrade. The reality is, though, that you're going to see VERY VERY little real world improvement as a result.
As for your concerns with PCI lanes. I have 2 780TI classifieds, arguably the king of the playground cards in the single GPU per pcb arena. I had them originally on a sabertooth z77 with a 3570k and now on a g1 sniper 5 (which has plx effectively giving me 32 pci lanes) witha 4770k. Performance difference between them? Borderline nil. Any performance improvements I've had have moreso been a reuslt of the processor change (and even then minimal). I also have a friend who's on here, Berzerker, who has a similar setup to me except he's on a UD4H with a 4770k, effectively no plx. We get more or less the same results too.
Credit where it's due you are right. That review was slightly outdated and driver optimizations have happened since. However, here is a more recent review using the 295x2 from Guru3d. Yes, they do max out the settings. That being said there is a review from kitguru showing Thief 4 with less than max settings [HERE])http://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/zardon/sapphire-r9-280x-vapor-x-oc-and-r9-290-vapor-x-oc-review/14/_). You can see that it's still not even pulling above 30fps on average. Yes if you do lower things (namely post processing) you will increase frames, but you wouldn't be lower it by much. What's more if you read around all reviews will say something along the lines of "For gaming at 4k, we recommend either a 780, 290, 780ti, or 290x". Yes you will be able to get it to somewhat playable framerates (I'd imagine maybe in the mid 40s average with tweaking, possibly higher if you set everything to low), you're trading off fidelity of the experience for increased resolution. Depending on your perspective, that is not exactly worth it. As for your other comment about the 270x, it can't do it at all in a playable manner. I would like to see benchmarks showing it doing more or less anything at an acceptable frame rate. Keep in mind that generally speaking people want 60fps average for a smooth experience, that much has been a more or less established standard (at least in review communities). All of that being said, it could change in the future with the adoption of gsync and (supposedly) freesync in the future.
Pick whichever is cheaper. At the time when I was purchasing, the 840 evo had a sale going so I went with it.
They may have advertised it, but it is in no way capable at 4k. To put things in perspective here's a review from Guru3d
I'd take the gigabyte. It's cheaper and there's no particularly good reason for the premium on the maximus hero
Not paritcularly no. Either or will be the same. If you want to be able to push your card further. Search for custom BIOS and how to flash them. OCN has a pretty extensive repository of information and bios. Keep in mind that this is much more advanced. Also getting 100-200mhz more is not very likely.
Depends on how many peripherals you have.
Not really no
NVIDIA cards are voltage locked like that
Given that: the original UD4H and ASUS card would work best. I hadn't remembered that, good catch.
It looks like the pricier one has wifi and a mini pci express port.
Well it has red accents to it, your motherboard has yellow.
For the EVGA cards, take the cheaper one. The other just has a second bios you can use, hardly worth it. I BELIEVE the ASUS card comes with gold inserts as well, but you should double check in reviews. Between them I'd take either the gigabyte or the EVGA. The ASUS one clashes with the rest of the build. At least the other two are all black or black and chrome/silver.
Since you can't really prove how many have been sold I'm going to ignore that. The swiftech h220 also uses copper fins. Balls in your court now. Actually, it has been this entire time. You've made bogus claims and assumptions and haven't been able to back a single thing. On the other hand, I've proven you wrong every step of the way and backed it with factual evidence and links. Oh, in case you are unable to find it for yourself PROOF that the H220 uses copper fins. Oh, also, the Tundra TD02 and TD03 also use copper fins with plating PROOF from a REP
H100i is fine. Pick what you like the looks of when it comes to CLCs.
By all means ask as many questions as you need to feel comfortable. If it was me buying here's how I'd look at it:
I hate following the norm, and I'm sick of red and black themed builds so that would instantly knock out the gigabyte board.
The ASUS board would be hard to match color wise and still look good unless you bought the ASUS DC2 cooler (which comes with gold inserts for the cooler)
Thing is...I absolutely LOVE the Mpower motherboard. The only reason I didn't get one myself is the PCI slot spacing doesn't work for me personally (I was super particular on this point when looking around because I needed a board that allowed for 2 empty slots between gpus when you count the cooler so that my SLI bridge would fit). I would honestly buy the MPower and wouldn't look back.
EDIT: Thanks for the comment on my builds haha. It took a while to get it the way I wanted (and a couple days of sore/cut fingers) but I think it turned out pretty nicely.
Almost no one needs optical drives these days. You can install an OS through USB
It isn't on here because it's no longer sold on the retailers listed. You might find it on ebay or amazon marketplace
It's a pity you don't use research before you claim I fabricate evidence. PROOF