They'll always overestimate the power requirements to account for the different other components that may be in the build, for example someone may have a 9590 which is a 220w cpu, whereas others may have the 84w 4790k.
Noise and Heat depend ENTIRELY on the card you choose to use. A Powercolor PCS+ 290 will run cooler and quieter than every 780/780TI available in the US market.
Difference is pretty much negligible.
600 for single, 1000w for dual
If you're focusing on aesthetics, get a blue motherboard to go with the GPUs like an ASRock Extreme4 or something, same with the ram. The corsair PSU is pretty overpriced for the wattage you're paying for. For a bit less you can get an EVGA Supernova G2 full mod. Also, I'd get a clc from an aesthetics standpoint so you can see more of the inside instead of a giant hunk of heatsink metal hanging off the motherboard.
290/290x. Cheaper, more vram, and both perform better than the 780.
The problem is we'd need to know what cards you're considering first and foremost. Only a couple GPUs on NVIDIA's side have unlocked voltage. On AMD's side they're all unlocked. In either scenario here's the reality:
Binning does occur, but much like the MSI rep said, for the vast majority it's still the luck of the draw. That being said there are some considerations to keep in mind.
Non Reference Design PCBS (Not coolers) TEND to yield better results. Particularly what I'm referring to here is the power delivery in these cards. For example, A 780 TI Superclocked from EVGA is a reference design PCB with a manufacturer overclock. A 780 TI Classified, however, is a non reference design PCB with a much beefier VRM design (14 vrm phases vs the standard of I believe 4 or 5 phases). This means that the power delivery to the GPU is much more "consistent" (there is a lower variance in voltage delivery at any one time) AND they're capable of sustaining more current (higher overall power draw) than reference design. All of this will potentially improve your overclocks ASSUMING everything else is constant.
Now going on to the consideration of water blocks: if you plan to put your cards under water, you normally would want to push their clocks up as high as possible. Since being watercooled basically removes the thermal limit of the equation, the quality of the GPU and PCB itself tends to play a larger role (not always, but tends to) in how well a card will overclock.
So basically the key takeaway is if you're going to watercool, it makes more sense to buy a NON REFERENCE PCB card with better power delivery because it tends to result in higher overclocks. The one condition is you need to make sure someone makes a waterblock for that particular pcb design. For example, MSI Lightnings, EVGA Classified's, and ASUS DCUII cards almost always get waterblocks made by EK. But to date there are no waterblocks out or in planning for the Sapphire Vapor-X line.
290 again. Cheaper slightly more powerful.
Then why not get a 290. It's around the same price/cheaper than a 770 and performs better.
PSU is in an odd wattage. It's two much for a single 290/290x and it isn't enough for 2. Go with either 1000w or 600w. Also the case is pretty big for what you're doing, you could save money by looking at the 450D.
The liquid only increases a few degrees celsius temperature wise.
No they can be removed, I don't remember exactly where the connection was, It may have been to the PCB on the back up top.
change the ssd, that particular kingston v300 has been given a pretty bad rep due to a quiet change in the hardware that makes it a good deal slower.
Crosschill doesn't cool the CPU itself, it's to keep the components on the motherboard itself cool last I checked. It has no direct impact on CPU temps.
Normally when you leak test you aren't running it with the components running. You just have the pump connected to the PSU and use the paperclip trick to get the PSU turned on. You can obviously run a paper towel along the tubing to check for any dampness, but you also are running for 24 hours to check to make sure that nothing develops over a period to make sure all the fittings are in place securely. If you wanted, keep the paper towels under any spot where you have fittings and from time to time run a paper towel over the fittings and connected tubing to check as well to be doubly sure.
Here's the thing, it's pretty much entirely subjective. Pick the one you like the looks of more. I like watching unboxings when it comes to cases personally. I'd watch a few for both cases and from there make a decision.
Maybe, but I wouldn't hold my breath. White motherboards are JUST starting to trickle in. First was the ASUS (I think it was called) Sabranco sabertooth motherboard, then this MSI Krait motherboard. Besides that there's the new ASUS X99 Deluxe board they teased yesterday.
There is the new MSI Z97 Krait motherboard coming out that you might want to look into for a black and white color scheme.
Either or, the difference in performance is pretty small. If the pricing is similar may as well go haswell.
You'd have to uplug the leds for the i/o panel lighting.
No it is not, it's the temperature at which the CPU will shut itself down to prevent thermal damage.
EDIT: To explain further. If you run your CPU stress testing software (AIDA64 IBT or whatever you prefer) and you hit 95C, that means that at the MOST EXTREME SYNTHETIC WORKLOAD you hit a MAX TEMP of 10 C BELOW the thermal threshold. That is absolutely fine because you will NEVER hit that temperature in real world operation anyway.
Only blocks that have leds are the xspc razor/raystorm and the new swiftech blocks.
Don't think it can do both at once.
EDIT: Change the PSU to this http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-120g21600x1
Instead of a 295x2 get separate 290x instead. It's cheaper and gives you the same performance. Heck you could go to 290s and get 3 for the same price as that 295x2. Honestly with this budget done right you could probably go quad 290 for the budget.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
there is no 760ti?
PCPP doesn't list individual vendor sites for purchase, only retailers like Amazon etc.
Well...the only performance you need is enough to get the overclock you want at safe temperatures right? Thing is safe temperatures for a 4790k are anything beneath 105C (a lot of people say they prefer beneath X but the only number to worry about is 105). With that in mind, most any dual fan CLC would work fine. Honestly pick what you like the looks of the most, they'll all cool enough to get you the performance you want.
Honestly the two best cases for airflow are the Silverstone Raven series and the Corsair Air 540. The RV05 (Raven) comes with some great 180mm fans for airflow and rotates the motherboard 90 degrees so the back i/o faces upward (shielded so you don't see it). The fans are put in the bottom of the case flowing up to a single 120mm exhaust and no intakes/exhausts on the sides to keep one steady stream from top to bottom (convection style). I don't think it's out yet but reviews of it have been really pleased with the noise and cooling performance. Unfortunately for push pull you can't really use this case unless you use an h80i, in which case I'm not sure about push pull.
The Air 540 is also great for airflow because there is no obstruction between the front intakes and the components. The 5.25 bays are in a separate compartment along with the PSU and SSDs. The hard drives mount to the bottom of the case as well so you have space for 3 120mm fans in front with no obstruction to the GPUs and other components.
Honestly not very impressed personally. I don't see the x99/any HEDT platform being all that useful UNLESS you need a lot of cpu cores for your work/usage. Fact is plx chips exist to give you 32 pci lanes on z97 and IPC wise the desktop lineup of CPUs is always a generation ahead, meaning normally around 10-15% faster than x99/HEDT CPUs core for core. As for DDR4 ram speed doesn't impact me much personally so I don't care much.
Also limiting the 5820k to 28 pci lanes is pretty lame.
My personal suggestion would be to ditch the extra fans, ditch the optical drive (you can install windows via a usb stick), switch to windows 8/8.1 for dx12 support, and ditch the fan controller. With the 85 bucks you've saved from those changes you could either get a better GPU like a 290 or get an SSD. Fact is with the fan controller you can control fans from your motherboard with the software suite you can get for it off the website, and the extra fans aren't going to improve things as much as getting a more powerful graphics card or an SSD. Another possible suggestion is to pick up an aftermarket cpu cooler like a 212 evo or something to allow you to overclock.
I'd say none of the cards with good reason.
The 780s are not worth the premium they command at all. They don't give you better performance than a 290, and they have less VRAM. In terms of features between AMD and NVIDIA it's more or less equal; NVIDIA has gsync AMD has freesync, NVIDIA has geforce experience AMD has Raptr, NVIDIA has shadowplay AMD has gamedvr. NVIDIA has physx AMD has trueaudio and mantle. You're not really getting a better software package from either side, they're more or less equal.
Moving on to the 290, I do believe it is the better choice, but I wouldn't get any of the cards you've selected. Personally I would buy the PowerColor PCS+ version of the 290. It's cooler and quieter than any other 290 available except for the Vapor-X which it basically trades blows with. The big difference between it and the vapor-x, however, is that it's 70 bucks cheaper at 392.99 right now.
Why would you get the ROG over the classified? They are more or less identical when it breaks down:
They're extra width cards
They both have 14 digital vrm phases
They both have enlarged heatsinks as a result for lower operating temperatures compared to other 780TIs.
Mind you this is just comparing to the classified, not even the kingpin. Above that the kingpin has dedicated voltage switches on the card, larger fans (iirc), and the ability to disable power checks on both memory and the gpu. Simply put at best they are equivalent. Both cards are built for heavy overclocking. In all honesty for the money if I HAD to buy a 780TI I'd get the classified version (which is what I did). The reasoning being you don't need the extra overclocking features available on either the matrix or the kingpin as they're only useful at sub-ambient cooling.
Taking a step back, I would say buying any 780TI is not worth the money remotely right now.
could you link the cards you're looking at as well as the build?
Same price with a better GPU
This is ENTIRELY untrue on the GPU front. AMD GPUs are at almost every price point the better option. The only situation where that isn't the case is the 780TI, because it does outperform the 290x, though it's well over 200 bucks more for something like 10-15% more performance TOPS. A 290 can be had for 350 bucks, within 15% performance of a 780TI, and more vram/bit bus. It's also nearly half the price, meaning you could almost get 2 290s for the price of a 780 ti. The 290 also outperforms the 780 slightly and is cheaper than that too. Honestly it's a no brainer to go with AMD GPUs these days because NVIDIA isn't trying to compete on price at all anymore.
Destiny I couldn't tell you, Skyrim it will destroy maxed out. For an idea just try looking at AMD r9 290 reviews and you'll get an idea of what to expect.
give me a minute I'm working on it
Then I wouldn't buy a z97 motherboard or an h80i tbh. No need for either one
Do you plan to overclock your cpu?
Like I told you in that dimension it takes up 2.5 slots. You have 4 slots.
Ignore clock speed, you're comparing different architectures. Between them personally I'd take the 280.
The thickness (meaning how close it gets to the window) is the same as any other card. The length is slightly longer and the depth (how many pci slots it takes) is more than the norm at 2.5 slots, try googling if you want to make sure.
The GTX 760 would be the rough equivalent.
There's a lot of overspending going on here. A 4820k is not worth it AT ALL. The socket is about to be replaced, and it's beaten by the 4770k/4790k for cheaper all in when you include a motherboard. The 840 pro tbh wasn't worth 300 bucks, not even remotely, same with buying caviar black drives. They're just hotter, louder, and consume more power for slight speed improvements.
The 780 DCUII is not what I'd go for personally either, in fact I wouldn't even go for a 780 at all. I'd be looking at 290s because they're slightly more powerful, give you more vram, AND they're cheaper. Something like the XFX DD, Powercolor PCS+ or Sapphire Tri-X.
In the end obviously it's your choice. If something happens to the product (which can obviously happen to either gigabyte or powercolor) the warranty is there for that very reason.
User reviews or actual product reviews? People get lemons, that's a fact, but you won't hear as often from people that were happy with the product.
I can understand paying more for looks. Some parts though you don't quite get that, like the PSU or the SSD