Oh, thanks. That makes sense.
I don't, sorry.
Singularity Computers on youtube has a couple Prodigy builds, so look those up.
Wow, props to Ryan! I guess I should have checked the listing before assuming it wasn't added yet :P. Thanks for this great website philip!
Thank you, I know you guys have a lot of work to do for the website. I was under the impression that you forgot about the older posts, but you didn't :)
Do you mind adding the Func MS-3 to Mice?
Nice build and great job on the silicon lottery! I looked at the screenshot and said, "4.8 Ghz at...0.88 V! On Haswell! Holy crap!"
I (hope) I wasn't implying anything about your "right" to having the computer. I was just curious.
As for my original question, it still stands. How did you save up this money? If you can explain more about the system, other people won't have a reason to think that this build is fake or downvote it.
Just curious, how the heck did you manage to save up $1,800 in ~9 months? At 12 my only income was allowance. Even now, I get some money in the summer (mainly fixing PCs), but I can't get a job at 15 years old.
What are you using this beast system for?
P.S. If you aren't very knowledgeable about computers, you could have checked your parts list with the forum. (e.g. your PSU is real overkill for the rest of the system).
What kind of temps are you getting? From the snapshots you posted, it seems like you have a good number of cables in front of the mobo. They will hurt airflow and therefore temperatures if they are not managed properly (i.e. tucked behind the motherboard tray). Don't forget to put ratings for your parts :)
I don't know about that case, but why are you going to use the RS? I thought that it was outdated and replaced with the RX series.
I think it depends on your mobo, but the H110 is only 29mm thick (excluding fans), so it is pretty thin. Does anyone else know about this definitively?
Yes, it should be fine. If you are nervous though, get a 650W.
Get the FX-6300 and overclock it. The 6350 is just an overclocked 6300--you're paying extra for AMD to do something you can do yourself.
The motherboard looks fine to me. I don't know if overclocking has issues with that chipset or there are other obscure problems (I don't own an AMD proccessor).
It is a nice build (good cable management!). I'll be honest though, if you had bought an FX-6300 and a nice cooler for some OCing, you would get more performance for the same or cheaper price.
The only two "expandable" liquid coolers that I know of are the Swiftech H220 (as Norm mentioned) and the Cooler Master Eisberg. If you can get them cheap, then they are a good deal. Otherwise, you would be better off with your own custom loop.
Can't you rotate the picture on your own computer? Why would this need to be part of the website? Maybe I'm missing something...
I haven't owned Xigmatek stuff myself, but Teksyndicate (et al.) did reviews of the cooler I mentioned and it has great price/performance.
Glad to be of service. If you want some tips on OCing methodology, look up TTL's socket 1155 overclocking guide. It is long, but a good reference. He really stresses taking your time when overclocking.
I don't know how I missed that detail...oops. It is still a great build.
The benefit from overclocking depends on what you are overclocking (CPU, GPU, RAM) as well as the scenario (for gaming, rendering, etc.) If you're scared, just start small. The thing that will damage components is voltage. More voltage = more heat. Heat can be dissipated with a good cooler, but pumping a lot of extra voltage through a chip will shorten its lifespan. That being said, a modest overclock with a good cooler will give you better performance with no real risk of damaging anything. I hope this helps!
If you actually paid ~$800 dollars for this, then you sir are amazing! If you are looking to upgrade something in the future, get a CPU cooler like the Xigmatek Dark Knight Night Hawk and overclock that thing. Very nice rig :).
A fanless GPU is for people who want silent low-end cards. You need good airflow in your case to keep them cool, but there are no GPU fans running. The same goes for fanless CPU coolers. You are better off getting a heatsink w/ fan(s) for both.
I would go for the i3. Your grandma won't need any of the APU's graphics horsepower, so the Intel chip should be fine.
P.S. AMD APUs benefit from fast RAM (compare it to the 6 Ghz RAM of discrete GPUs, and you'll see why it is important for the integrated graphics). Normally fast RAM is a ripoff, but here it is important.
Why don't you start your own thread? This one is old and I doubt anyone else will look at it.
They are obviously cheaper, which makes them a good choice, but are they really faster? I thought it was 840 Pro > OCZ Vector > everything else.
I was actually thinking about it the other way around. If you have a small SSD that is your boot drive, Ninite should have the option to install everything (or even better, to pick and choose what to install) on the big hard drive.
At the bottom of partlists it says "Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders, long video cards in mini-ITX cases, etc."
This leads me to believe that Philip is already working on implementing these features. For now, research for compatibility is necessary.
I've used Ninite before and it is AMAZING! My only wish was that you could choose which drive to install on (if you have a HDD and a SSD in the computer). The Ninite team has said that they won't support this because the installer is supposed to be a "one-click" solution for people to easily install things. It would be nice if they had a power user oriented mode.
This gets support from me!
Usually it is called a heatsink for air cooling. Also, the cooler usually goes right to left, instead of having fans on the top and bottom. You will probably need to measure the case and fans yourself to see if two fans will fit.
You would see a difference, definitely. I don't know if you'll get much farther than 4.5 Ghz though.
Look up TTL's 1155 overclocking guide. It may not all apply to you since you are using an AMD chip, but the methodology is the same. Overclock in small increments until you get something you are comfortable with. Overclocking is where the 8350 really shines. At stock clocks it falls behind the Intel competitors. You have a nice cooler, so you should definitely go for it.
If you don't push extra voltage through the components, there is a ~0.000001% chance of damaging them. As you add more and more extra voltage, then you start to decrease the life of the components. However, heat will stop you far before voltage limits. Unless you're doing something really extreme, the OC will be safe.
What cooler are you using?
I just finished translating Caesar's Commentaries in Latin Class. I say +1 to him just for the title :)
Get the CX430M. It is modular, which will really help with cable management. Looks good otherwise.
If it fits your needs, then great! But yeah, it is a little outdated. If you were to rebuild it in the near future, you could probably get a nice APU-based rig for gaming.
The picture is blurry, but it looks like you could fix up the cable management. It will help temperatures and airflow, and then you can run the fans quieter as well.
+1 Great idea and a useful feature.
In that range, it really is the best that I know of. Either Phanteks or Noctua would be good choices, but their coolers are usually more expensive. The NZXT Havik is also a good cooler, but once again out of your budget.
Lifehacker had a top 5 webcams/facecams a while back. If you google for it I'm sure it will come up.
EDIT: I found it
If you won't be overclocking, then you really should change out some of those parts (e.g. 3570 for 3570k). Also, you can probably get a 520 or 550 watt unit, and that would be fine. You don't need to jump all the way to 600 watts.
Looks good! As a future upgrade, I highly recommend an SSD. After that, 8GB of RAM?
Your cable mangagement is... interesting. I haven't seen anyone route that cable up around the fan like that. While you don't have the cleanest setup, your cables don't look like they would impede airflow that much. If you temps and noise are good, then leave it.
You could run Folding@Home on it 24/7. It would be slow, but it doesn't really matter.
I currently fold with the LinusTechTips Team (223518). You probably have seen Linus' videos on Youtube--if not, you should check them out.
I wouldn't just be able to use my remote like normal? Or is that considered an external sensor...
Since I already have a cable box, would I be better off buying a cheaper card that can't decrypt?
I think it is mainly marketing stuff (I have not used it, only heard/read reviews). The problem (I think) is that it does not play nice with most games, which hurts performance, instead of helping it. On the few games that work with it, you do actually get more FPS.
Especially with RAM prices as high as they have gotten, it would be crazy to buy an extra 8GB of RAM that you don't necessarily need. Some people do need it though--for example, I do 3D modeling/animation and if I want to run a complex fluid/fire/physics simulation, it can take LOTS of RAM.
Try switching the DIMM slots of your new memory. If you only get errors in certain DIMM slots, then the problem is your motherboard.