I'm actually happy with the cable management :) No custom sleeves which bends easily etc. but does not clutter up and velcroed on the back
You're right, it's adjustable in tilt, roll and pan - and I had it rolled a bit to the right when I took the pictures :) Good observation :D
Sorry, don't have Team Fortress 2 :)
Congrats, that is one Epic build :D
I love the execution and thought that has gone into the build. and great to make her her own PC like that.
(also nice with the homework/chores rule)
Absolutely well worth the feature - thanks for sharing :)
I don't have a car. And the speaker system and TV is crucial parts of the Home Theater Gaming Setup (which is what's listed) and the "couch" you refer to is the NerdyTec's CouchMaster, a wonderful addition which makes gaming from the couch a breeze, highly recommended :)
If both are 60hz, then 4K will be better (but look into input lag of said monitors also - I find that rather important). If you run 120 or 144hz, then the 4K monitor would require you to dial down settings to benefit from it, as the top games today run 60-70FPS on Ultra in 4K with those cards. Remember to run windows at 150% or so scale if going 4K, as some ui objects gets very small in 4K :)
Yeah very happy with the living room. it functions well as both home theater, music listening and gaming. It is the first proper TV and Stereo I've gotten after I was done studying, so I figured to go proper right away. Spent quite some time researching and listening to pick the right parts for the sound system - computer stuff I already knew much about from building lots of computers, but did much research on how to get the computer completely silent when not gaming (and yet quiet while gaming) while still being able to pull off 60fps at 4K on ultra settings in high-end games - and the TV was the right pick at the moment as it has a low input lag (for a 4K TV) - so I'm really pleased with all the parts in the living room :)
I've recently gone with Seagate Expansion Portable. And I always stay away from the drives which use external power. Most important for them to survive is to avoid vibration of the drive, and to safe disconnect (even if life is too short to safely disconnect drives). :)
For backup I'd likely go with a 1TB external hdd which can be stored off the machine. if something like overcurrent is to kill your data you anyway don't want it inside the same pc that got fried in the first place :D Myself I use the cheapest dropbox-account for 1TB online backup - but an external drive will be a cheaper sollution. :)
Love your build :) Nice components.
I'd not go with HDD's for upgrade as they will add noise and usualy block airflow - a NAS seem like a very good idea though :D
Haven't gotten to try that yet, so many games to play. I've bought and installed it though - but only gone through settings as of yet :)
88500 USD is what that car cost in Norway - to give perspective of the price differences.. (and that's the clean starting-price)
Lovely build, as custom as they get :D
I like how you used Sketchup to model the build before building it, I did the same with my build even if it's not custom at all - to ensure I had clearance for the parts.
Remember to warn people before entering your office ;)
Pretty thing :D
The cost is about what people spend on a car. I neither want or need a car. So it's really more about priority than anything else.
if clocked right I'm sure it can..
yeah, I figured this would be the best way to be able to both reach the underside of the Cpu Heatsink and top at the same time while tightening it - as I was building it alone :)
Sweet build :) nice parts and good looks.
I think it fits your cozy gaming corner very well :)
uhm, you also get a car for $3,000 US..
and you usually get what you pay for :)
There are 2x 1tb m.2 ssd as well as 1 tb sata ssd, so a total of 3tb. With already 25tb on the office computer I don't really need tons of storage on the home theatre gaming rig. And I avoided hdd as they would make sound, and likely malfunction as they are all up by the righ hand sub
More of the cables would be too short, but power is the worst to 'extend'. Even if it would go out mid-wall it would need 80cm+ extra slack as i often push the tv 60cm out from the wall, plus swivel it to see the tv from the dining area. Subs come with calibration setup through mic, plus I use audyssey on the Denon to solve much for the room lackings. Sure it will not be perfect, but it gets really good. One in the back would not work well with the room layout, itd simply look bad. No given setup is sure to be good with every room, with subs its often about moving and rerun the testsounds to see what the frequencies read, then move and try again, or more for this setup I did tweaking of the subs frequency settings to get a smooth as possible curve while also going as deep as they could.
For threatment there is just the curtains, blinds, carpet and sofa. I wont add bass traps or other abdorbees/diffusers as this is the common living room. I just dont find it fitting there. If I later build a room focused on media, then the room shape, setup and decoration would build more around that performance :)
I've done internal cabling for the rear speakers - and I'd love a whote/transparent cable for the TV - the new Samsungs come with this - however, the power cord is still black.. The issue with a cable hider is that I pull the TV 60 cm into the room - which makes the cords not long enough if they were to meet at the center then go back to where they need. I was thinking to make it internal in the wall - but since I plan on moving later down the road I didn't want to make a hole on the middle of the wall - after all I dont know if the next owner want the TV at this wall - the previous owner didn't - but I totally agree that it should be hidden.. I wish for the most part that white cables would become standard for all cabling - 90% of all walls are usually white, how many are black? For the JL one will have the power no problem - the reason I went with two is to even out these peak-frequencies - with two subs the tops and bottoms of some frequencies will be evened out by the second.
Those are what prices are in Norway. Gpus are down $30 here now since then
and for good reasons, watercooling wouldn't have made the cut for this builds goal. :)
you'll see why in the description. I spent much time looking at both air and water cooling, and while water is the best thing to do if you look for pure power and overclock while staying quiet - it can't beat a air-cooled system running at moderate power which get's completely silent. If I wanted an even more quiet system during heavy gaming - then water would make sense - but it would also result in minor sound during idle, which was not ok for me this time around.
you are right. though the pci slots are both "armored" and should handle it - and the sli-bridge also helps stabilise.
since the top gpu already touch the fan-pin of the cpu-cooler I'm not really looking to make it get even closer.. so the small sag will stay :)
Well, it's a good thing it will be just as sweet to play with when one get's home :D
Thanks, you rig looks nice too :) And I like the pika hiding in one of your pictures :D
Even the Xbox One plays 4k blu ray movies, however 4K gaming is another story indeed :)
That seem like a nice product, I also looked at the Roccat Sova - however both these designs have an integrated keyboard which is locked in one position - I game with the keyboard at an 25-30° angle - and like to be able to use my Roccat keyboard which allows for unique key-combos together with the Roccat mouse.
But if those things are not a concern the Lapdog seem very nice.
CPU is 50°C at idle, 60-70°C while gaming.
GPU is also 50°C at idle, bottom card 65°C and top card 70°C while playing Wildlands 4K Ultra - though in many gaming scenarios the top card will reach 80°C and the bottom card will then be 5-10°C below this.
prisjakt.no shows the lowest possible price over time in Norway - (this is not a key reseller - prisjakt does not sell anything but only picks up prices from all around the country to display the cheapest) thats a good place to go if you'd like to compare those prices.
The graphics cards were bough from the first shop that could deliver them here in Norway, as I bought the card day 1. which is also the largest seller of pc-parts in the country. Their price for the GTX 1080 Ti MSI Gaming X is still the same '1020$'. I can't post a direct link as pcpp then deletes the comment, but it's really easy to look it up if you are that concerned about the prices put up. There are today possible to get the card for as low as 985, meaning that if I had waited for a week I could have saved 35$ per card - but when I put up the build I place the cost of the parts where I bought them, at the time that I bought them.
It's rather easy to look this up yourself by going to the Norwegian websites.
I bought it for 12999 nkr here in Norway, which translates pretty much exactly to 1500$. It says in the description that prices in Norway in general is higher than for instance in the US.
I was also looking at water cooling, but the fact that I wanted a completely silent idle build ruled that out. :) as I dont do any overclock it's also not neccesary, the quiet air cooling keeps up with everything perfectly :)
I' using HDMI through the reciever, which then sends the picture to the Tv, and sound to the speakers. This is the simplest, but also the best way to connect as it carries a much higher bandwidth than s/pdif, and supports higher res audio.
Not here in Norway, here the price of that card comes at 1000$, and is not in stock.
In general prices for all things are more expensive in Norway than most places, though income is also generally higher. So I'd be able to save 20$ by going with a card I could not control with the same software as the motherboard - which would be a bad deal as I see it.
For me it was either going with MSI both for motherboard and gpus, or Asus for both - as both of these are compatible with the same lighting setup as the Case - Evga does not have that, and as far as I know they also do not have a motherboard that allows the two gpu's to be this many spaces apart. (the last point could be wrong, but I've not seen such a motherboard from them with Z270).
If it's your primary location it's very nice. it has space for cables inside, with holes on various locations for cables. so when all is "installed" you have a single USB cable going from the Couch Master to the PC - then a hub inside where you connect keyboard and mouse. Best is to leave most of the keyboard and mouse cable then inside the Plate for minimum clutter. If you use a wired headset for night playing then you must also have extension for that. If you play with all wireless they also have a cheaper option for that without the usb-extension/hub.
If you use theater chairs with arm-rests then the plate can simply rest on the arms (unless they are too tall - but thats not common) - else for a couch the pillows that comes with it will raise the couch-master so it wont rest in your lap. Personally I've lately used it right in my lap as I like the ease of less elements as well as finding the low-profile plate rather comfortable - but I'm sure the height is up to taste really. I've noticed Roccat and some more has started to create things like this: http://www.roccat.org/nb-NO/Products/Gaming-Keyboards/Sova/
which should also be looked at. This will however mean you are locked to that keyboard.. and as I like to have my keyboard tilted at an angle, that means I'm better off with a loose keyboard which I can tilt the way I like it. I'd roll the dice to 5 for the couch master.
Hi, I'm very pleased with the Denon reciever for this build. I know many would go for separate amplifiers - but for this sized room I will never go up to the max the reciever outputs anyway - that would just be painful. The subwoofers are active, and I cross-over >40hz from speakers to subs - so the reciever never push it's limits.
I've listened to very little multi-channel music, as they seem few and far between - but I like it. I find to benefit of the surround even at normal tv-watching. Most channels have surround sound even at normal sport - letting you hear the crowd cheer from the side speakers with the action up in front - and it adds to the experience. For gaming it's just awesome being able to hear exactly where the sounds come from, but how good it is depends much on the game being played. For the Rubicon LCR they are good if you can't fit floor standing speakers - but they can't beat the sound of Rubicon 5's. I was thinking to go with the LCR but then was visiting a friend who also had Dali - and he had changed with floor-standings and tipped me that they are better in sound, and that the ability to move them to wherever you want them placed also is a big bonus. As for the center speaker it is also better than the LCR. Now - the LCR are also good sounding, I tried it in my living room before I chose the other one - and it sounds good too, just the 5's and the vokal are both having an edge over them.
I'm well aware that the soundstage would have been better if I oriented the entire livingroom up against that side-window - but it simply would not work well for everything else.. You would have to climb over the couch to exit the home cinema space, and you would have to remove the window alltogether to be able to hold the TV there (it would anyway block it all) (As an architect I'd not want to completely mess up the room-setup) - I actually added loads of extra bearing in the wall where the TV hangs to support it, it's a wooden wall - and the TV being able to swivel and hang 60 cm out from the wall needs good support.
At a later time I might like to make a separate media-room, but for now it works very well - and it's quite nice having the setup in the one room you use the most. And luckily, Audessy does an excellent job covering up for the rooms short-commings :)
Psu might never spin, gpu fans will only spin when I play 3D-games - case fans run at 400 Rpm and Cpu fans at 500 or so.
10 cores at 4.5 GHz would certainly not be giving a complete silent operation, and video editing is not the goal of the build, gaming is. and as stated in the description the only time the 6950x beats the 7700k in most games is if PCI lanes come into play. However - PCI lanes are only a topic when SLI is enabled, at which point I don't need to worry about performance in any case - for those games where SLI is not working is where I need to think about performance - and without SLI Pci lanes are no longer an issue, and the faster core-speed of the 7700k again beats the 6950x.
I don't overclock any parts of this build, because one of the main tasks for this build is to be completely quiet at idle, and very silent at full load. Going with lots of overclocked cores that isn't really benefiting the gaming performance isn't a good choice for this build, based on what it's made for. Let's just say the reason I go with the 7700k is not the price, but the performance it has for what I'm using it for - "up-grading to more heat and more noise is not what I wanted. I've spent 6 months reading reviews and benchmarks for the various parts of the build, and 6950x has certainly been on my list - but proved to not be a better pick for my build.. I understand that many would opt. for a 6-10 core CPU though, as most other tasks on the PC than pure gaming will benefit from it.
The description states why the 7700k is a better choice for this build :)
Yeah I love them :), both the Dali surround and the sub's are very much to my liking. I tried the front stereo speakers at home before buying, and compared them to B&W CM10 S2 - and while I found the CM10's to be a little bit richer in the higher tones, I found the balance to be better overall on the Dali's - so thus I went with the Dali. I also think it's good to stick to the same range around all the channels - as it ensures they have a matching sound.
Though, with a few mouse clicks the Geforce Gtx-leds can be turned off, without having to turn off any of the other GPU leds :)
All the pictures (except first 9) is with the computer running. I could have done more variations of colors of course - but currently I usually have it either in that blue calm color, or with only those red lights. I don't fancy flashing rainbow colors etc. so much :)
Though, what fun would that be? :) I'm not a car enthusiast :) but I love good picture, sound and gaming :D
I don't know anyone doing custom cables up here by Norway - and shipment from the US would both take a long time, as well as cost more than I see benefit from custom ones - I actually like that all the cables are all black as it does not interfere with the chosen lighting from the RGB (like the Gaming X red-shrouds does) - and then it's just the slicker look and custom lengths left to benefit so I chose not to do the custom ones. I know they are quite popular for many though :D
Top floor in a two story house, but its on a hilltop, so there is a good view. Norway is generally quite hilly with lots of mountains :)
They come in setups for wired or wireless mouse/keyboard - I went with the one for wired since that will also work fine with wireless of course. Also here I could chose with or without the 5m USB Dongle - which I did, and it's very useful if you go for wired solution. The last few days I've actually ended up not using the two side-thingies and just rested the board on my legs - as it takes less space, is quicker to move around and I somehow like the low setup a bit. If one use a armchair for gaming one can actually just rest the plate between the arms - but I see the middle seat is a nice snugly double-seater, so legs or the side-thingies would be the way to go :)