Description

This build has transformed over a year, it started in a cooler master elite 110 case, and progressed to this. Along the way I upgraded from a i3 6300 to a i7 6700k, a gtx 960 to a gtx 1080. Went from stock cooler to water cooled. Added more fans and 2 SSD 240gb. Even though I technically started my htpc a year ago, today it is finished as I swapped out my ATX power supply to a Corsair SF600 SFX power supply.

Things to know when working with this case, power supply, gpu, etc... unless you get a blower form gpu, you will need a sfx psu, an atx psu will choke the critical airflow of the gpu. After switching my psu to the sfx corsair, my max temp dropped from 91c to 71c. And when it's not being pushed to its ceiling it still runs cooler on average. It was common before the switch to run at 81c while gaming under load, now it averages 60c on a normal game. Like i said, unless you choose a blower design gpu, you must have a sfx psu.

Also be warned, most sfx power supplies will come with cables that are quite short, no matter the brand. I made it work without getting customs, but just barely. I had to flip the psu upside down to make the main motherboard cable reach, I hope to get a sticker to cover the psu information side. Maybe down the road I will get longer calbes, but it works for now. I just had to get creative with the cable management. Unless you get longer cables you will have a fun time figuring how to lay them out.

I'm very satisfied with my build, it's a Frankenstein build of parts from past builds. I have the hue+ lights behind my tv for watching movies on to make it easier on the eyes in a dark room, but I used Velcro command strips so I can remove them and put them back in the case if I want. Tv is 4K, and the gtx 1080 runs fine, you just have to plug the right hdmi port to get 1440p at 60hz, the port vizio recommends for gaming, only allows 1440p at 30hz, it can do 4K 60hz fine, and 1080p, but it has to be on a non gaming hdmi port to achieve 1440p 60hz. I believe this applies to all new smart cast vizio tvs. Mouse and keyboard are wireless, and the keyboard is solar charged. The thermaltake Riing rgb fans are not as bright as other fans from corsair or nzxt, but I like it that way.

If you are a first time shopper most of the parts I bought are available on jet, combine that with discounts, and an ibottta account and you can bring the total price down by nearly 25%. Let me know what you think, or if you have any suggestions on anything, I love tweaking it and learning more. This has definitely been a learning process over the years to get to this point.

Edit: added picture of psu sticker I made to cover up the psu information sticker. Now my build is complete. At least this build wasn't made in Britain.

Edit 2: Added pictures end of gallery of old atx psu and the distance between the psu and gpu for reference to the relative space of the sfx corsair sf600. I fixed gpu slump by using a Velcro tie on the far right to hold it up more in the new build.

Comments

  • 32 months ago
  • 2 points

How loud is the Corsair SF600 under load? I'm debating the SFX PSU + open air GPU vs ATX PSU + blower GPU in this case. Curious if you have any anecdotal observations from using both.

  • 32 months ago
  • 2 points

I'm gonna pull the psu out tomorrow and see if a wire is close to the fan. I'll let you know.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for looking into this! Yeah from the reviews I've read, the clicking noise is just the relay inside the PSU working normally, although it's more noticeable with the SFX form factor.

At the moment I'm leaning towards the ATX PSU and blower, though my mood shifts from week to week. Right now I figure if I really am not getting the performance boost I want out of a blower card, I can always buy a water block for it down the line. Plus I really like the idea that the GPU will be actively removing hot air from the case and allow me to get even better performance out of a CPU air cooler like the Cryorig H7.

To me, this guy's Nano S build is the ideal. No wasted space, quiet, all system components visible from the window and a little RGB bling just for fun. Arguably compromising on the maximum GPU performance overhead but I have a feeling I won't care after the system is built.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

That is a nice build, so simple. I don't like large air coolers, but that build is so nice.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

Running it this morning after tweaking the fan ( I tried to center it a bit) it's dead silent. But not conclusively gone. But today no clicking after the tweak. FYI it takes a lot of power draw to get this thing to spin to begin with. I can only get the psu fan to spin when doing combined physics and graphics tests in 3D mark when I overclock both the CPU and gpu. All other operation and normal gaming the fan does not spin.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

It's kind of weird. I'm getting a lot of clicking noises like you read in the reviews, it doesn't really bother me since it's an htpc not right next to my face. I'm testing it right now. I've noticed that after minutes of use under load it quiets down the longer the fan runs. Annoying, but not a deal breaker for me. But if you can get a blower and you don't care for asthmatics or are having a closed case get an atx power supply. Plus you will get longer cables to work with. All sfx power supplies come with short cables. For me though I can handle the clicking nose to start off with, but it could drive others nuts. I didn't really have a choice because I was stuck with my gpu. It was either buy another 1080 or get a smaller psu. I chose a smaller psu. And this one had the best reviews. If I were to start from the beginning, I would probably plan I blower gpu. Reason I got this one is it was on sale plus promos on jet for 510. And compared to the market it was a steal of a deal. Hope this helps.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

After stress testing it for 5 minutes the clicking stopped entirely. It's really quiet now. I can assume this is how it will perform in long game sessions. Like a car during winter takes a minute to warm up. Not ideal, no excuses, but it's fine with me.

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  • 32 months ago
  • 2 points

Wow super clean build! This may be my new favorite Nano S build. Nice job man!

Also That picture placement of Moss has me rolling lol. +1

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks! My goal is one of these days when I'm bored to take a hue+ strip put it down in that corner and have a few of the LEDs with candle mode on. I'll just go put this with the other fire.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

My first thought when i see this build,

"Awe look at the baby p- OH MY GOD THE POWERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR"

XD, love the small form factor yet killer build, +1 from me man!

How was building in the Nano S? What would you have done differently?

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

I don't know if it's a done differently, more like if I had more money. Only complaint is the corsair sfx cable length, far too short for the case. And this isn't a big it's case either, it's no micro case, but it's not big. The cables were hard to work with. When I had my atx psu in it I had tons of room. Cable management on this is incredible in my opinion. There are tons of holes in hidden places on the case to hide fan cables etc. it comes with some Velcro straps in the back. I'd recommend getting a package of 50 Velcro cable management straps on amazon. Only other thing I can think of is the open space on the top of the case, I wish the nano didn't have that grill bigger than the fans you can install. I have 120mm, but even if you had 140mm fans up top there is still a space about an inch or more of open grill with no filter. Doesn't bother me too much since that is where my outflow is, but it's something to chew on. Other than that this is my favorite case I've owned. I'm thinking of getting the side window mod for it they sell on mnptech.

[comment deleted by staff]
  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

Nano S done right! +1

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

I regret purchasing NZXT's Hue+. For the first week or so I loved it! Now the only thing not looking so bright in its future besides the LEDs is the software the controls it. Simple fix if you or anyone else encounters this problem: Just unplug and re-plug it, restart CAM, and it should detect it. Personally, I do it so much that I'm honestly thinking about creating an exterior switch just for the HUE+.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

I've had it running for 2 months in different layouts and have only had a few hiccups. It's been behind my tv now for a month and turns on with system boot and remembers the configuration even before cam loads. My only complaint is the color accuracy, no good way to get a solid yellow or plain white, it always gets a light green or light blue tint. My razer mamba is way more accurate. I agree though the software has a ways to go, it feels like a prototype as it stands now.

  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

Real nice bang for the buck in a small form factor. Looks like that Zotac 1080 just barely squeezed in there!

  • 31 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey man, new builder here... Where did you plug your front panel connecters into? The skinny ones connected to the front buttons for power and stuff? I'm only asking you cause I have the same MOBO & Case thanks in advance

  • 31 months ago
  • 1 point

https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/192555.97fbffd1e6606a724c701f4c8b978f0a.1600.jpg

If you look in this picture, you can see where I put the usb 3.0 cable, it is the thick cable imeadiatly to the bottom left of the cpu watercooler, the hd audio cable for the front plugs into the motherboard really close to this to the bottom left of the usb 3.0 cable. As far as the front io cables, they are currently hidden under the Motherboard cable that extends up from the psu under the gpu and to the motherboard. The plug ins on this motherboard are immeadiatly below the 24pin power connector on the motherboard.

  • 31 months ago
  • 1 point

I got it! Thanks a lot man!

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey, if you're still watching this build, I'm planning on building in this case with this PSU - why did you choose to flip it fan up?

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  • 32 months ago
  • 1 point

I got mine refurbished, but it's been mostly fine. First gaming mouse I've owned so I'm no expert as what to expect, but I love it. The battery life depends on the polling rate, I just keep it at 125. If I leave it at 1000 the battery doesn't last long in wireless. I used this for a while as wired temporarily, and it worked great then. But in my htpc setup I only use it wireless. I love the dpi switching, and the lighting effect. But most of the time I actually leave the lights off. As it stands, I can get about 8 hours of non stop use with the sensor being used consistently. If I only use it occasionally I can get a few days out of the battery. Usually I just put it back on the dock at night, but like I said when I don't it still works for a few days. The battery charges really fast. If I turn off the mouse and dock it I can be full charge in less than an hour. The laser is invisible to my eye, so no light at all comes from it. My only issue I have had with my mouse is that I left the lighting system off on the mouse for a few weeks, and it started flashing the battery light at me all the time. It didn't matter how full the battery was it would flash at me. I reinstalled the synapse software and turned on very minor lighting, and then it went away. I haven't seen it since. That was a month ago, no problems since then. Just a minor glitch. I love the mouse, it's simpler in design compared to most game design, and that's why I love it. I put the clicker pressure on the lightest, but it does work to increase the pressure if you want, not my thing though. I like light clicks. The battery is non replaceable, and I'm sure it will go bad one day, but that's fine with me. By then I'll transfer it to being only a wired mouse for my laptop. Feel free to ask more questions, but that about sums up my experience.

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